Music Download Page Updated for Your Pleasure

Click on the "Music" link on the "Download It" column on the right hand side of the page.
I've updated the music so you have a organized list of the songs that you can find a little easier!
ENJOY
A...

Recommended Route(s)

Another great all-time Revelstoke classic!

SPANOKOPITA 5.11C - 22M - BOLTS

Climb up the right side of the big cave, clip your first bolt, and then its on. Side ways holds, feet and big moves lead to a tricky crux and a final roof. A classic at the grade and a must for any visitor to Begbie Bluffs. Combine this route with a couple more on this wall and you will leave a happy climber. The picture include here is courtesy of my Japanese friend Ryo! Get on it!

Music!

It's been a while since I posted some music.....
Now I will post it a little different way, I am gonna put a link to YoUTUbE so you can watch a sweet video of the song as well. Let me know if you guys/gals would like the actual MP3 link to the song, and I would be more than willing to link it on the site.

A couple of bands/songs that Im psyche on at the moment:

The Temper Trap - Sweet Disposition

Phantogram - Let Me Go

Shapeshifter - Twin Galaxies

Passion Pit - Swimming In The Flood

Slightly Stoopid - Mellow Mood

Cougar Canyon Climber's Survey

A great grade survey that Lyle put together. Many new climbers to Cougar Canyon feel that some of the routes are tad bit sandbagged, in my opinion some are a little off, but this gave people a chance to put in their two cents. After you get use to the climbing here in Vernon, things at least feel like they are consistent to the area(s).

Courtesy of Lyle Knight:

"From the “it’s just data” category, here’s the results from the Cougar Canyon grade survey.  Have a look, share it around by email or blog, it’s a fairly limited response (15) and not a lot of surprises.   At the end of the day future guidebook authors can take the opinions under advisement in concert with their own views"

The Survey: Cougar Canyon Grade Comparison Survey

The Cougar Canyon Challenge!

I have put together a sweet list of routes that if done in a day would offer a great challenge. A sport route list from 10a to 11c, and a crack climbs list that includes all the good clean cracks that cougar offers. Something for someone to aspire to or just a good list of some routes worthy of a visitors attention or a locals' efforts. Let me know what you think (or if there are any that I am missing out on), I feel these routes, from my experiences (and from some other feedback) are some of the best Vernon has to offer! ENJOY! Comment here if you get it done! Thanks.....

THE COUGAR CANYON CHALLENGE

(In A Day)

Careful planning  would be necessary to make it all happen, but totally do-able for anyone up for a challenge! It could be a worthy objective for those looking for something(s) to work towards as well (tick list?!). Climb up to # 8 for a sweet 5.10 challenge!

1: MIXED COMPANY – 5.10A – 6 BOLTS – 20M –BETA WALL

2: PLANET OF THE APES – 5.10B/C – 6 BOLTS – 15M – COUGAR WALL

3: BLOWDOWN – 5.10B – 8 BOLTS – 23M – TOAD HALL

4: RETIRED – 5.10C – 15 BOLTS – 35M – TOAD HALL

5: READ BETWEEN THE LINES – 5.10B – 7 BOLTS – 22M – ROCKY HORROR

6: SATANIC MECHANIC – 5.10C – 11 BOLTS – 28M – ROCKY HORROR

7: HUMMINGBIRD – 5.10D – 10 BOLTS – 25M – BETA WALL

8: FIREARMS – 5.10D – 13 BOLTS – 30M - GAMMA

9: ORANGE GLOW – 5.11A – 8 BOLTS – 22M – ALPHA WALL

10: STEEPERS CREEPERS – 5.11B – 8 BOLTS – 22M – BETA WALL

11: COURTING ROMANCE – 5.11B – 5 BOLTS – 20M - GAMMA

12: THE HONEYMOON IS OVER – 5.11C – 4 BOLTS – 15M – COOKIE MONSTER 

CLASSIC COUGAR CRACKS

(In A Day)

Again, careful planning would be essential for this to all go down successfully, but a worthy objective in it’s own right. This list could be also done as a sort of longer-term goal or a tick list.

1: HORNDOG – 5.7 – GEAR TO 3” – 20M – BETA WALL

2: DIE FLATERMOUSE – 5.8 – GEAR TO 3” – 22M – ALPHA WALL

3: UNDERHANDED – 5.8/5.10.C – GEAR TO 2” – 15M  (2 CRACKS)

COOKIE MONSTER

4: COUGAR’S TOOTH – 5.8/5.9 – GEAR TO 3” – 15M  (2 CRACKS)– SECRET WALL

5: PHYSICS TEST – 5.9 – GEAR TO 3” – 22M – ALPHA WALL

6: GEAR 4 FEAR – 510.C – GEAR TO 3” – 2 BOLTS – 32M/25M (2 PITCHES)         COUGAR WALL

7: HIGH TENSION WIRES – 5.10B/C – GEAR TO 1”- 1 BOLT – 22M – BETA WALL

8: POWERLINE – 5.10+ - GEAR TO 2” – 4 BOLTS – 25M – BETA WALL

Cougar Canyon Climbing Update!!

A great update, compliments of Lyle Knight.
Red Lines are gear routes, white lines are sport routes!


Cougar Wall Topo - 2011
Cougar Canyon, BC

A. Don Cougar Melon Cap 5.9 - Gear
B. Cougar Crack 5.10d - Mixed
C. Cougar Arete 5.10c - Sport
D. Cougar 1 5.9 - Gear
E. Dirty Old Men 5.9 - Gear
F. Paving Paradise 5.10a - Sport
G. Gear For Fear 5.10c - Gear
H. Stellar 5.10a - Sport
I. Mantle Breakdown 5.11b - Sport
J. Tres Amigos 5.9 - Mixed
K. Planet of the Apes 5.10c - Sport
L. Pocket Toss 5.11d - Sport
M. Thor's Hammer 5.7 - Gear
N. Bonsai 5.7 - Gear
O. Afterglow 5.10+ - Sport
P. Skilled or Killed 5.10b/c - Gear

Syphon Creek Climbing - Salmon Arm Rock Climbing!

I have been recently climbing at an awesome crag in Salmon Arm called Syphon Creek. The climbing was great, and although there was not a ton of climbing, there were some really nice moderate roots on high quality granite. Some of the cracks reminded me of Squamish a little. Anyways, I just wanted to give some extended beta, so anyone visiting this site can get there no problem and enjoy the scenic waterfall, good rock and wonderful atmosphere.

To start off, the guidebook 'Shuswap Rock' only gives directions that make sense if you are from the area and before there was residential development. So just a fine tuning for those who are not farmiliar with the Shuswap. If you drive west on the Trans-Canada Highway from Salmon Arm, as you leave town the highway shoots north (the lake is now on your right), after about 8kms from the edge of Salmon Arm you will see a sign indicating Pierre's Point Rd. (campsite/cottages) on your right. A few meters before this look for 50th Ave. NW on your left. Hang a left here and continue past where it hooks south and turns into 50th St. NW.(just stay on the pavement) After 2.5kms from the TCH you hang a right on 40th Ave. NW, where there will be Gleneden Fire Hall on your left. Follow this for 1km until you see a dirt parking lot on your left. From here the crag is about a 15-20 minutes hike up stream. With the Shuswap Rock Guidebook you should be good to go!

These next routes of mention are probally the best here (the majority of). No Refunds is one of the best layaway/layback sport climbs Ive ever done and the rest of the cracks/climbs have a very interesting feel to them. Aesthetic would be the word that comes to mind. Although there are only a few climbs, they are worth the visit! Lots of cool moves that make the climbs feel longer than they are.

Once there some recommended classics I got on were:

DERAILED - 5.8+ -20m - GEAR

LAY ME DOWN - 5.9+ - 22m - GEAR (white)
NO REFUNDS - 5.10+ - 20m - SPORT (yellow)

SCHOOL OF COMMITMENT 5.11C - 12M - BOLTS (red)

LONE PINE - 5.10 - 20m - BOLTS (blue)
THE FORT -  5.7 - 20M - GEAR (white)

LEDGE-IBLE - 5.7+ - 18M - GEAR

Also at the waterfall crag are these two gems (no pics sorry):

ZIG ZAG - 5.8 - 20m - GEAR (right hand crack route)

IRON CROSS - 5.10 - 20m - MIXED (left hand route)

Recommended Route(s)

These climbs are located at the Ellison Park - Lakeside Cliff (Boulder Traverse) and have been recently cleaned up! Go send em'

ZERO EFFECT 5.10C

15M - SPORT

A classic sandbagg at the grade. Climbs up to a single bolt near the left side of the boulder traverse to a big ledge, then into the big roof/left facing corner. The crux comes as soon as you step off the ledge, with small feet, slopey pinches and a really fun sequence. Quite the short little route!

RED HANGERS 5.11D

15M - SPORT

This stout route climbs the big right facing corner feature on the right side of the cliff. A steep awkward start leads past a couple of tricky sections, then to a crack and a final lunge onto the upper face. Expect a good pump getting up this one!

ROCKIN' IN THE FREE WORLD 5.12B/C

16M - SPORT

This climb starts on the steep face just to the right of 'Red Hangers'. Climb past a few bolts of generally straight forward climbing until the crux sequence begins, very tiny holds and a big deadpoint will see you through (hopefully) to a really nice crimpy finish. Pumpy and intricate! Supposedly (rumour has it) this route has had a key hold(s) come off in the crux section, hence the bump up in the grade. I would love to get some feedback on this (feel free to comment)!

New Boulder Problems In Vernon!

Springtime is here and recently I have been doing some cleaning and trail maintenance in Cougar Canyon and at nearby Ellison Provincial Park. During the process there has been some new problems that I've discovered and some of them are definitely destined to become classics! Cougar keeps surprising me with more and more beautifully featured rock popping out of nowhere. And as well a nearby area in the vicinity of Ellison (Granite I might add) has really revealed some good potential and some nice problems on excellent rock only minutes from the road. Here are some updates (and photos) of the problems, and I will be adding the Cougar additions to a new updated guidebook that I will post come summer time. ENJOY!

COUGAR PROBLEMS:


1 - Cool Breeze - V3/5
Directions:
Head past the 'slackline boulder' take a right towards 'Jaws' and instead of heading right head left, follow tape/cairns and you will end up at two very chilly caves. The one in front of you on right is 'Cool Breeze'.

Route:
Start low down in the cave on the left. Bad feet lead you onto the face where the more left you stay the harder it becomes. Very cool crimps and grippy rock is the highlight of this one. Many variations are possible, the more right you stay the easier it is. Named after the freezer type breeze that comes from the icy cave.

2 - Achilles - V6
Directions:
Head towards the Secret Boulders from the 'Down Under' problem, and after about 25m you will see this pedestal type boulder on your left. Marked with cairns and tape.

Route:
Start with a sloper for the left and a small hold in the overhang for the right. Heel hook (essential) and try your best by campus-ing, etc.. to gain the left trending rail. Once established, get you feet out and gun for crappy holds to the finish. Great movement and pumpy moves (good landing, high finish).

3/4 - Cold FX Cave - V2/V5

Directions:

Head past the 'slackline boulder' take a right towards 'Jaws' and instead of heading right head left, follow tape/cairns and you will end up at two very chilly caves. The one in front of you on the left is 'Cold FX'.

Route:

Find to positive holds deep down in the cave, bump up to bigger ones, throw out left and then up to the lip and over to finish. The right variation (harder) uses and desperate rail and a small sidepull to gain the lip.

PREDATOR BLUFFS PROBLEMS:

5 - Talons - V3

Directions:

Shhhhh....

Route:

Start on a big jug down low in the cave, throw out right to a sloper/sidepull, gun for the lip, then heel hook and move out left until its possible to top out. Classic granite problem! (Good landing)

7/8 - Stands With A Fist - V2//1

Directions: 

Shhhhh....

Route:

Start on two low pinchy type holds. Move up the arete with wild feet and small holds to a fun top out. Firing out right after the start eases the grade with bigger holds to choose from. Great short granite problem

9 - Scarecrow - V4+

Directions:

Even more Shhhhh....

Route:

Start low on the slopey rail. Gun for the lip and start out right. awkward feet and desperate (sweet) holds will see you through to the highest point of the boulder. Would be a classic in Squamish. Fun granite!

10 - Men In White Gloves - V2

Directions:

Even more Shhhh....

Route:

Start low on the slopey rail but go straight up to the lip. Climb up over onto the slab with heel hooks and no holds (friction).

Let me know if anyone has any more questions about these problems or their whereabouts!!!

Local Updates

A March Climbing Day In The Okanagan!

Here in Vernon the rock climbing season has started!! The weather is pretty nice (most of the time) now, Skaha is open and soon it might stop raining in Revelstoke & Squamish so we can get out and start adventuring! There are couple of updates of mention that I will post here. The Ellison and Cougar Canyon Bouldering topo/guides have had a little update and there are two new routes that have been bolted in Cougar Canyon!

Cougar Arete 5.10c 
3 Pitches All Bolted (can be climbed mixed as well)
It starts just to the left of Gear 4 Fear, the first pitch climbs a long face to a hanging belay. The second pitch is the money with exposed crimpy moves right off the belay and the onto the arete and a small roof! The third pitch is shorter but also has some exciting steep moves to finish. Will be classic with some traffic! Fall 2010

Mantle Breakdown - 5.11a
1 Pitch All Bolted (second pitch variation of Stellar or Tres Amigos)
Make some face moves off of the chain belay out right and onto the exposed arete. Reachy moves and a big mantle (crux) make up this fun pitch. Full value! Spring 2011


Cougar Canyon Bouldering Guide Updated Version (2011)
Cougar Bouldering Guide 2011
Secret Garden Bouldering 2011

Ellison Provincial Park Rock Climbing Updated Version (2011)
Ellison Guide 2011

Aberdeen Columns Crack Climbing Lumby, B.C (2010)
Aberdeen Columns Guide

Bat Roof 5.10b - Ellison

Who Done It - 5.8 Ellison Style