These climbs are located at the Ellison Park - Lakeside Cliff (Boulder Traverse) and have been recently cleaned up! Go send em'
15M - SPORT
A classic sandbagg at the grade. Climbs up to a single bolt near the left side of the boulder traverse to a big ledge, then into the big roof/left facing corner. The crux comes as soon as you step off the ledge, with small feet, slopey pinches and a really fun sequence. Quite the short little route!
RED HANGERS 5.11D
15M - SPORT
This stout route climbs the big right facing corner feature on the right side of the cliff. A steep awkward start leads past a couple of tricky sections, then to a crack and a final lunge onto the upper face. Expect a good pump getting up this one!
ROCKIN' IN THE FREE WORLD 5.12B/C
16M - SPORT
This climb starts on the steep face just to the right of 'Red Hangers'. Climb past a few bolts of generally straight forward climbing until the crux sequence begins, very tiny holds and a big deadpoint will see you through (hopefully) to a really nice crimpy finish. Pumpy and intricate! Supposedly (rumour has it) this route has had a key hold(s) come off in the crux section, hence the bump up in the grade. I would love to get some feedback on this (feel free to comment)!
The hold in question was a cinder block sized hold that formed a lovely lay back. Some time in the early 90's a couple of visiting climbers from Kelowna got on the route and the hold ripped, narrowly missing the belayer. The hold now lays as an anonymous rock at the climbs base.
ReplyDeleteAaron Kristiansen
Zerro Effect was the first route I ever had a hand in developing. It stands as testament to noob route developers everywhere. Botched bolting, chopped bolts, sand bagged grade. If you think the route is short, believe it or not it used to be much shorter. As in -one bolt long- with the original anchor, now chopped, on the ledge at 1/3 height.
ReplyDeleteAaron Kristiansen.