Sunday, October 28, 2012

Ellison Provincial Park Rock Climbing - New Routes!

As I finish my time here in Vernon, I have been focusing on finishing a few climbing projects at Ellison near town. Although there isn't a whole lot of potential here, the few new lines that have been put up are really good and basically climb or combine existing routes in a more direct
(ie: fun) fashion. There is one potential new route as well (has been re-cleaned but could of been climbed back in the day). All in all a some great additions to an already awesome area. Stay tuned for an updated guidebook coming soon as well! Here they are:

5.10B - MIXED - 4 BOLTS + GEAR TO 5" - 22M (Variation)
 Start by climbing the nice corner/crack line through a wide (8") section (Little Sister). After the wide section clip a bolt and mantle a big ledge with a huge boulder on your left (heading straight up to the right where Little Sister continues up the blocky terrain). From here continue up the face to the arete where a crux greets you surmounting the bulge on the arete (great exposure!). The climbing eases from here to the bolted anchors (fixed biners) on your right. Bring some long slings and watch for rope drag.

5.7 - TRAD - GEAR TO 2" - 20M
A great easier addition to the climbing here with a Squamish type feel. Climb from the base of the Basalt dyke/intrusion into some blocky/juggy stuff on your right. Fiddle in your first piece and cruise through some wonderful laybacking and awesome hand jamming (good gear) to where you surmount a bulge and finish in the main corner. Bolts to lower.

 5.10+  - MIXED - 3 BOLTS + GEAR TO 2" 24m (Variation)

Start way down low at the base of the cliff at a awesome layback hand crack. Start by climbing the clean crack to a ledge then scramble over right to the arete. Climb the arete with increasing difficulty on crimps and layaways with a crux at the final bolt. Once under the roof, get into position and muscle through the very steep crack on finger locks and wild moves. Avoid moving way out right and finish direct for full value. Chains with fixed biners to lower.

1 comment:

  1. Hey Allen,

    I'm sorry to hear you are leaving the Vernon area. Many thanks for all the contributions you've made to the climbing scene here. The routes, boulder problems and guidebooks are much appreciated - a cool legacy to leave behind as you continue your travels.

    I look forward to trying a couple of the new routes you mentioned in your latest post. Where is the 5.7 trad line located?

    Thanks again. I hope I get to see you before you leave.