The Cougar Canyon Challenge!

I have put together a sweet list of routes that if done in a day would offer a great challenge. A sport route list from 10a to 11c, and a crack climbs list that includes all the good clean cracks that cougar offers. Something for someone to aspire to or just a good list of some routes worthy of a visitors attention or a locals' efforts. Let me know what you think (or if there are any that I am missing out on), I feel these routes, from my experiences (and from some other feedback) are some of the best Vernon has to offer! ENJOY! Comment here if you get it done! Thanks.....

THE COUGAR CANYON CHALLENGE

(In A Day)

Careful planning  would be necessary to make it all happen, but totally do-able for anyone up for a challenge! It could be a worthy objective for those looking for something(s) to work towards as well (tick list?!). Climb up to # 8 for a sweet 5.10 challenge!

1: MIXED COMPANY – 5.10A – 6 BOLTS – 20M –BETA WALL

2: PLANET OF THE APES – 5.10B/C – 6 BOLTS – 15M – COUGAR WALL

3: BLOWDOWN – 5.10B – 8 BOLTS – 23M – TOAD HALL

4: RETIRED – 5.10C – 15 BOLTS – 35M – TOAD HALL

5: READ BETWEEN THE LINES – 5.10B – 7 BOLTS – 22M – ROCKY HORROR

6: SATANIC MECHANIC – 5.10C – 11 BOLTS – 28M – ROCKY HORROR

7: HUMMINGBIRD – 5.10D – 10 BOLTS – 25M – BETA WALL

8: FIREARMS – 5.10D – 13 BOLTS – 30M - GAMMA

9: ORANGE GLOW – 5.11A – 8 BOLTS – 22M – ALPHA WALL

10: STEEPERS CREEPERS – 5.11B – 8 BOLTS – 22M – BETA WALL

11: COURTING ROMANCE – 5.11B – 5 BOLTS – 20M - GAMMA

12: THE HONEYMOON IS OVER – 5.11C – 4 BOLTS – 15M – COOKIE MONSTER 

CLASSIC COUGAR CRACKS

(In A Day)

Again, careful planning would be essential for this to all go down successfully, but a worthy objective in it’s own right. This list could be also done as a sort of longer-term goal or a tick list.

1: HORNDOG – 5.7 – GEAR TO 3” – 20M – BETA WALL

2: DIE FLATERMOUSE – 5.8 – GEAR TO 3” – 22M – ALPHA WALL

3: UNDERHANDED – 5.8/5.10.C – GEAR TO 2” – 15M  (2 CRACKS)

COOKIE MONSTER

4: COUGAR’S TOOTH – 5.8/5.9 – GEAR TO 3” – 15M  (2 CRACKS)– SECRET WALL

5: PHYSICS TEST – 5.9 – GEAR TO 3” – 22M – ALPHA WALL

6: GEAR 4 FEAR – 510.C – GEAR TO 3” – 2 BOLTS – 32M/25M (2 PITCHES)         COUGAR WALL

7: HIGH TENSION WIRES – 5.10B/C – GEAR TO 1”- 1 BOLT – 22M – BETA WALL

8: POWERLINE – 5.10+ - GEAR TO 2” – 4 BOLTS – 25M – BETA WALL

Cougar Canyon Climbing Update!!

A great update, compliments of Lyle Knight.
Red Lines are gear routes, white lines are sport routes!


Cougar Wall Topo - 2011
Cougar Canyon, BC

A. Don Cougar Melon Cap 5.9 - Gear
B. Cougar Crack 5.10d - Mixed
C. Cougar Arete 5.10c - Sport
D. Cougar 1 5.9 - Gear
E. Dirty Old Men 5.9 - Gear
F. Paving Paradise 5.10a - Sport
G. Gear For Fear 5.10c - Gear
H. Stellar 5.10a - Sport
I. Mantle Breakdown 5.11b - Sport
J. Tres Amigos 5.9 - Mixed
K. Planet of the Apes 5.10c - Sport
L. Pocket Toss 5.11d - Sport
M. Thor's Hammer 5.7 - Gear
N. Bonsai 5.7 - Gear
O. Afterglow 5.10+ - Sport
P. Skilled or Killed 5.10b/c - Gear

Syphon Creek Climbing - Salmon Arm Rock Climbing!

I have been recently climbing at an awesome crag in Salmon Arm called Syphon Creek. The climbing was great, and although there was not a ton of climbing, there were some really nice moderate roots on high quality granite. Some of the cracks reminded me of Squamish a little. Anyways, I just wanted to give some extended beta, so anyone visiting this site can get there no problem and enjoy the scenic waterfall, good rock and wonderful atmosphere.

To start off, the guidebook 'Shuswap Rock' only gives directions that make sense if you are from the area and before there was residential development. So just a fine tuning for those who are not farmiliar with the Shuswap. If you drive west on the Trans-Canada Highway from Salmon Arm, as you leave town the highway shoots north (the lake is now on your right), after about 8kms from the edge of Salmon Arm you will see a sign indicating Pierre's Point Rd. (campsite/cottages) on your right. A few meters before this look for 50th Ave. NW on your left. Hang a left here and continue past where it hooks south and turns into 50th St. NW.(just stay on the pavement) After 2.5kms from the TCH you hang a right on 40th Ave. NW, where there will be Gleneden Fire Hall on your left. Follow this for 1km until you see a dirt parking lot on your left. From here the crag is about a 15-20 minutes hike up stream. With the Shuswap Rock Guidebook you should be good to go!

These next routes of mention are probally the best here (the majority of). No Refunds is one of the best layaway/layback sport climbs Ive ever done and the rest of the cracks/climbs have a very interesting feel to them. Aesthetic would be the word that comes to mind. Although there are only a few climbs, they are worth the visit! Lots of cool moves that make the climbs feel longer than they are.

Once there some recommended classics I got on were:

DERAILED - 5.8+ -20m - GEAR

LAY ME DOWN - 5.9+ - 22m - GEAR (white)
NO REFUNDS - 5.10+ - 20m - SPORT (yellow)

SCHOOL OF COMMITMENT 5.11C - 12M - BOLTS (red)

LONE PINE - 5.10 - 20m - BOLTS (blue)
THE FORT -  5.7 - 20M - GEAR (white)

LEDGE-IBLE - 5.7+ - 18M - GEAR

Also at the waterfall crag are these two gems (no pics sorry):

ZIG ZAG - 5.8 - 20m - GEAR (right hand crack route)

IRON CROSS - 5.10 - 20m - MIXED (left hand route)

Recommended Route(s)

These climbs are located at the Ellison Park - Lakeside Cliff (Boulder Traverse) and have been recently cleaned up! Go send em'

ZERO EFFECT 5.10C

15M - SPORT

A classic sandbagg at the grade. Climbs up to a single bolt near the left side of the boulder traverse to a big ledge, then into the big roof/left facing corner. The crux comes as soon as you step off the ledge, with small feet, slopey pinches and a really fun sequence. Quite the short little route!

RED HANGERS 5.11D

15M - SPORT

This stout route climbs the big right facing corner feature on the right side of the cliff. A steep awkward start leads past a couple of tricky sections, then to a crack and a final lunge onto the upper face. Expect a good pump getting up this one!

ROCKIN' IN THE FREE WORLD 5.12B/C

16M - SPORT

This climb starts on the steep face just to the right of 'Red Hangers'. Climb past a few bolts of generally straight forward climbing until the crux sequence begins, very tiny holds and a big deadpoint will see you through (hopefully) to a really nice crimpy finish. Pumpy and intricate! Supposedly (rumour has it) this route has had a key hold(s) come off in the crux section, hence the bump up in the grade. I would love to get some feedback on this (feel free to comment)!