|Nick climbing 'THE AMAZING KOKANEE LIP TRAVERSE'|
Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park is a beautiful sub-alpine/alpine park located 50 minutes from the city of Nelson that offers breathtaking hiking trails and views in a diverse mountain landscape. After about an hour and a bit of hiking from the Gibson Lake parking lot you enter a grand valley and come upon Kokanee Lake. The hiking has now got even better, you've gained most your elevation and things really start to open up. Wait a second, what are those big blocs at the bottom of that slide?
The visitors to the park will be asking you the whole way up, what are those giant things you are carrying? Well let me tell you... there is some sick bouldering up here and it is worth the hour and a half hike up with these silly things on our back that keep us from breaking our ankles :) Not only is the climbing aesthetic but the rock is made up of a super high quality granite that offers all kinds of awesome problems! Combine this with an amazing atmosphere, fine views and a great hike in and you have a worthy destination! There is lots of potential as well for more problems! Go check it out before the snows of October, the climbing is just above 2000m and it faces north east…. ie: a great summer bouldering spot!
Link to printable version:
Kokanee Lake Boulders (1 of 2) Guide
Kokanee Lake Boulders (2 of 2) Guide
KOKANEE BOULDERING ESSENTIALS:
High amounts of stoke!
Hiking poles (optional)
* Certainly worth doing - still a good problem
** Probably amazing and shouldn't be missed
*** Supreme Classic and worth 450m elevation gain and a 5.5km hike in :)
Directions:Drive east from Nelson, cross the orange bridge and head about 20km towards Kokanee Creek and Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park (signed). Just past the campground take a left following the blue provincial park signs for Kokanee Glacier. Follow the logging road 16km up past beautiful old forests to about 1650m and the Gibson Lake trailhead/parking area. Follow the main trail up for about an hour and a bit to Kokanee Lake. Traverse left on the main trail across the lake, head down to the meadow and pick up the trail going up to the west through the boulders/slide (tread lightly) following cairns to the boulders; about and hour and a half from the parking. The Meadow Boulder is the first big guy you come to, head around to the right a bit further to reach the Wonderland Boulder and hidden just beyond is the wonderful rock of the Glacier Boulder.
Described as you come to them left to right
MEADOWS IN THE SKY - V8? **
Jump start to the big jug on the right hand face, traverse onto the side pull/sloper feature and climb the wild arete. Pad this one up well!
LAST ACTION HERO - V2 *
Jump start to the big jug on the face, make a big move to a grippy sloper and transition into the crack and up.
HIEARCHY OF CONTROL - V3 *
Jump start yet again to a cool jug right on the lip, a big move out left gains another positive hold, now mantle and finish way up high on easy terrain.
THAT BEAUTIFUL SOMEWHERE - V4 **
Start under the overhang, make a powerful move up to the lip and a really cool jug feature, now finish up right on the corner/arete. Lots of variety!
PROJECT - V7/8?
This one climbs up some positive features on the very burly overhang. Progress should be easier once you've made it over the lip. Two finishes, the left will be harder.
NO DOGS ALLOWED - V5 **
Start out right on a big juggy rail, traverse out left on some tough lip holds and mantle over the bulge with a series of side pulls to choose from. Pumpy!
HUCKLEBERRY - V1 *
Start crouched and make some crimpy moves up into the big rail feature. Climb it up and left into the mellow corner up high.
INDIAN PAINTBRUSH - V4 **
Start matched on a big hold down low, climb up into the arete, unlock the sequence and finish up high through diminishing holds.
ALPINE BUTTERFLY - V0+ **
Start seated on the big blocky hold, move up through the cool features and side pulls to a hidden hold finish. Great easy problem on cool rock!
COSMIC FORCES - V4 **
Start standing at the lip of the roof on some cool crimps. Awesome traversing holds lead to a big throw at the finish. Excellent! Low start anyone, there is a big beautiful hold down there but it is one big move!
WONDERBAR - V6/7 *
Start as per 'Wonderland' but move out left to a tricky sequence at about mid-height and a powerful finish.
WONDERLAND - V5 ***
Start way down low on an undercling and a small crimper. Power up through the cave on wild overhanging moves and huge throws. The holds are huge the whole way but can you control the pump!
THE AMAZING KOKANEE LIP TRAVERSE - V3/4 ***
Climb the stratified lip right to left. A sit start on the prow down low ups the anty a grade or so and is highly recommended. This might just be one of the most amazing lip traverse lines you ever get on. The rock is unbelievable!!
THE SHARP END - V3 *
Start low on the jug in the little corner and climb the corner out and left through some sharp rock to a nice ledge feature. A couple of big moves up and right finish things off! Should get better with traffic.
GLACIER FRESH - V3 ***
Start low on the jug in the little corner, move out a bit to the right, now power up through those amazing jugs. Unbelievably steep & exposed for a boulder problem of this grade! Sick!!
THE KOKANEE MARMOT WARRIOR - V3 **
Start low on the jug in the little corner, traverse out and right through some pumpy holds and another jug haul finish up the middle of the face.
KOKANEE GOLD - V2 **
Start seated in the middle of the face on a great hold. Power up through more unbelievable orange jugs to a couple of surprisingly smaller holds and the finish.
ALPINE EXPRESS - V2 *
Start seated on the middle of the face on a great hold. Power out and right towards the arete and another great jug haul on amazing rock!