Thursday, April 17, 2014

Recommended Route(s)

Kinnaird Bluffs is an amazing old-school crag located on the south end of Castlegar overlooking the whole Kootenay river valley. There are many classic lines here, as well as some new ones that have sprouted up in recent years. Most of the REALLY good stuff leans towards the fine cracks that are abundant at Kinnaird. 

A line I've often looked at but deemed run-out in the guidebook and quite dirty looking stood there probably not getting any attention for some time. It was time to clean and try Lightning Crack. It ascends the steep face just to the left of the big roof system, zigzagging back and forth forming a kind of lightning bolt looking feature. It climbs up through a tough crux transitioning into the main crack to where some huge moves, sick jams and good gear pump you all the way to the top. A highly recommended adventure.

Now, a new line, that shares the anchors with 'Lightning Crack', was put up by Aaron Kristiansen in 2011. It climbs the arete where the trail from the parking meets the cliff, basically the far right side of the Open Book Wall and the first route you run into at Kinnaird. It is an awesome route worth doing on it's own right, it forces you to climb out on the arete on sick rock with some amazing exposed moves.

With the addition of this new route, you can simply clip the first few bolts, transition right into the 'Lightning Crack' and climb this without it being run-out anymore. So, in addition to having a sick new (read:well bolted) sport climb, Lightning Crack has been re-cleaned and should become an instant classic around these parts. Both are a must if you can climb these grades. Have fun!


A - Daisy's Big Adventure - 5.10+ - 30m - 11 Bolts - SPORT ***
Grade and crux are quite height dependant. Climb up to the arete on easy ground to where 2 cruxes greet you at both bulges. Awesome exposed jugs to the finish!

B - Lightning Crack - 5.11b - 30m - Gear to 2" - TRAD ***
Climb the first few bolts of 'Daisy's' then transition right onto the steep face. Pretty pumpy and tricky movements into the main crack (C3 BD Cam useful here) to where some flawless jamming and good gear continue up the overhanging face. Classic!

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