Thursday, March 27, 2014
Pub Wall - Lion's Head - Castlegar Rock
This is gotta be the shortest approach to a crag ever! And with beer nearby, this is a place you gotta go see for yourself :) It's called the Pub Wall and it's located beside the Lion's Head Pub (yes beside) in Robson (basically attached to Castlegar) and is a total sun trap. The climbing consists of technical, high quality, low angle face climbing on really good Gneiss. The cruxes tend to be down low and a bit sneaky, especially on the harder routes. Aside from the crack on the far right (great) its all generously bolted and has good fixed stations. There are two pitches on the upper wall that serve as nice 2 pitch options, or one long pitch linked with two raps to descend (about 40m) that are worth the effort. As a side note, like many other crags on Lion's Head, access is touchy so don't go treading where it looks like peoples backyards and try to keep the place clean and as you left it!!
As some added fun I present a CHALLENGE!! Climb all 9 pitches in a day, its totally do-able. Give it a shot a go celebrate with a nice BC Craft beer at the pub!
For full updates on these and many other areas in the West Kootenay. Head to http://climbthekoots.org/
From Nelson, drive towards Castlegar, and right after the big Brilliant Dam, turn right and follow the blue signs towards 'Syringa Provincial Park' & the community of Robson. Drive down this road for a few km's, past the Pass Creek Rd. turnoff, to your next turn off on the right; this is Broadwater Rd. Follow Broadwater for 1.1km to the Lion's Head Pub right after the 'TEMPO' gas station on your right.
Park & Play :)
Lion's Head - Pub Wall:
1 - Pub Fight - 5.10d - 15m - SPORT *
The farthest route on the left. Climb up the ramp and into the steep face. Some dirty slopers and a very awkward crux lead through the bulge. Easier incut climbing ensues…
2 - Pub Crawl - 5.10b - 23m - SPORT **
Climb the ramp right off the boulder pedestal/belay to a little ledge, some non existent holds and fancy footwork lead you up into the technical, beautiful upper face. Lower here on continue on up the next pitch
3 - Walk it Off - 5.9 - 22m - SPORT *
Climb just to right of 'Pub Crawl' to the same little ledge. Continue up the balance-y slab. Lower or continue on.
3b - A beautiful corner weakness feature flows to the top of the cliff with some nice exposed moves, especially up high…..worthy!!! Second pitch of 'Pub Crawl'
4 - Bender - 5.10a - 20m - SPORT **
Climb up the ramp, undercling traverse out and to the right and pull over a fun little bulge. Easier balance-y stuff leads you to the top. Cool!
4b - Climb up this second pitch through slabs and some steeper terrain up high. Second pitch of 'Walk it Off'
5 - In Like A Lion - 5.10d - 20m -SPORT *
Climb up the tricky ramp to an in your face bulge. Watch your third clip, she's tricky pulling over. Fun techy face climbing brings you to the top.
6 - Bar Star - 5.10d - 22m - SPORT ***
Start up the steep, beautiful, right facing feature on slopers and laybacks to a sustained technical section up high. Some cool huecos finish off the route. A little different than the rest and my vote for the best route on the cliff!
7 - Deep Fried Pickles - 5.9 - TRAD - GEAR to 1" - 15m **
The nice finger crack on the far right. Climb up easy ground to a steep finger crack, look for the bomber nut placements along the way :)
Note: There are some other climbs around the right of the cliff but access is tricky here. The come in a 10b (trad) and a nice 2 pitch 5.8 (sport)