Saturday, May 4, 2013

GOTHAM CITY - Nelson, B.C - Rock Climbing

Today was a great summery day here in Nelson, so we decided to go check out this wonderful little secluded crag called Gotham City near the little town of Ymir. If you are looking for a good days worth of friendly sport climbing not far from town, then this is the place.

Hidden down amongst the trees right off the highway in a quiet spot, Gotham City hosts 13 great little sport routes on very well featured rock. The highest being about 15 meters, all the climbs pack a lot of fun in a very short time. There is something for everyone here from 5.9 to 5.11a with a bunch of great steep, sustained climbs around the 10a-10d range. The rock varies from granite, to basalt and even a little limestone-ish stuff near the bottom of the Bat Wall. All the climbs are bolted well and have great stations accessible from a trail that leads to the top that makes for some very easy top roping. Keep in mind this is a new area and of a fractured nature. Expect loose rock and some little blocks coming off time to time. Again a wonderful area that faces south and makes for a great day 20 minutes from Nelson.

Thanks to Shaun King from Mountain Sense for the development of the area! (All of the FA's are credited to S.King as well 2011)

From the 4-way stop in Nelson (reset your odometer) at the end of Baker St. follow Highway 3A south towards Salmo. You will pass the turnoff to Whitewater at 11.6kms, keep driving and after a few minutes you will end up at a big straight stretch of road. At the end of this straight strectch you will see the Hall Siding Crag on your right at about 18kms. Pass this crag and drive another 500m to 18.5kms where you will see a grassy pullout/field on your left with an ashphalt cairn. Park here but be careful of the lip on the curb for a low-clearance vehicle, especially on the way out. Now walk back on the powerline cut road (north) to a little uphill and a small rock step on your right. Turn sharply to the right here following cairns and pink flagging tape into the forest where a nice trail leads you down to the crag. A total of about 10 minutes from the car.


bat WALL

1 - ALFRED - 5.6 - SPORT - 4 BOLTS - 12M
A good beginner lead or solo, big holds!

2 - BRUCE WAYNE - 5.8 - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 12M 
Climb the corner/arete on some big features

3 - THE JOKER - 5.10A - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 14M *
Climb the fun, juggy overhang and finish just left of the roof

4 - BATMAN - 5.10C - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M ***
Climb up some more basalt jugs with cool pinches, make some big moves through the roof and it's over. Fun climb!

5 - THE DARK KNIGHT - 5.10D - SPORT - 6 BOLTS - 15M *
A direct start to 'Batman', a few small holds leave you more pumped by the time you hit the roof.

6 - CATWOMAN - 5.10D - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M **
A cruxy/bouldery start through some limestone-y rock that will make your arms tired and then into a juggy finish up the steep little corner feature. Good!

7 - THE RIDDLER - 5.10B/C - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M ***
Great incut holds that lead into a hard (especially if your short) transition into the corner. Flowy climbing to the top, real good!

Climb up good holds and pull the wild roof, easier climbing ensues.

robin WALL

1 - HOLY SMOKES BATMAN - 5.9 - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M *
Climb the nicely steep featured face on the far left. Nice warm-up

2 - BOY WONDER - 5.10A/B - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M ***
Climb the steep arete to a wild layaway move midway. A fun thoughtful climb!

3 - TWO FACE - 5.10A - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 13M *
Hard to start without straying off on another climb but the rest of the route climbs well

4 - BAT GIRL - 5.10A - SPORT - 4 BOLTS -12M
Climb the blocky (some sketchy stuff here) corner to a cool transition through the roof and onto the upper arete/face

5 - DICK GRAYSON - 5.9 - SPORT - 4 BOLTS - 12M
Climb the short face on the far right with some good features

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