Monday, March 18, 2013
Cat Wall - ARROW LAKES, Castlegar
Recently there has been a ton of rock climbing development happening around the Castlegar area. As you drive out towards Robson and Syringa Provincial Park the cliffs appear and keep on appearing into view as you drive down the lake. Yes there is good climbing up there and yes there is room for tons more.
The cliffs and lines that have been developed are of very good quality and the access is very quick. They offer a very sunny aspect and good views that make for a great spring destination. Yesterday we were privileged to climb at Wapiti Wall & the Cat Wall. The Cat Wall is further from the road and offers some nice quiet, steep, exposed climbing on bolts and gear! Where as the Wapiti is 2 seconds from the car with a great mix of routes. I have done up a small topo with a good photo to the Cat Wall that hopefully will get some more people out and aware of the great climbing to be had here. There is a full topo/update to the area on http://climbing.inthekoots.com/ that has been wonderfully put together by a few locals (that put up lots of the routes) that should sort you out! Thanks to those who have spent all the time developing and documenting this great area. Have fun~
ACCESS: As you approach Castlegar from Nelson, follow signs pointing you towards Syringa Provincial Park & Robson. Turn onto Broadwater Rd. and follow this past the Pulp Mill & the Dam on Arrow Lake. About 1km past the dam you will run into a red gate and a small road/pullout on your left (lakeside). Park here cross the road and follow cairns and tape on a cut trail through the forest, passing a few really nice boulders. The first wall you encounter is the Lower Cat Wall, take the right fork up and around to access the Upper Cat Wall (3 more minutes). Careful of loose rock, this is a newer area, I recommend a helmet!
LOWER CAT WALL:
Good easier routes here with a bit of loose dirty rock that could clean up nicely. Routes are described left to right.
CAT-ER-PILLAR - 5.9 - SPORT - 3 PITCHES
OLD CAT, NEW TRICK - 5.8 - MIXED - 4 PITCHES
CAT MANDU - 5.9 - SPORT
CAT-ER-WAUL - 5.10A - SPORT
CATATONIC - 5.10A/B - SPORT
VEGGIE POWER - 5.7 - SPORT
UPPER CAT WALL:
The reason to come here! Steep exposed climbing with great views, a bit of everything. With some traffic this area will be great.
CAT BURGLAR - 5.12B - MIXED - 30M **
A steep, bouldery start pass some bolts leads you into a gear devouring crack. There are fixed draws up top and the climbing will demand your attention!
FELINE FINE - 5.10C - SPORT - 18M *
Start on the blocky corner/seam, clip bolts to your left then power through the face on tiny holds to a fun finish.
JIMMY - 5.10b - SPORT - 23m ***
A great sustained route with a nice flow. The finish is great! My vote for the best on the cliff.
DAISY - 5.10A - GEAR TO 4" - 22M
The steep broken crack just right of the steep face. A wee dirty but could be great!
HAILEY SIMONE - 5.10B - MIXED - GEAR TO 2" - 20M **
Climb through the roof to the bolt protected face. Plug gear where you need it. Cool features.
CAT FIGHT - 5.10b - MIXED - GEAR TO 3" - 22m **
Climb through gear protected overhangs and corners to a bolt protected roof up top.
I CAN HAZ CHEESEBURGER - 5.7 - MIXED - GEAR TO 3" - 20M *
Nice intro lead on the very far right side of the wall, good stances through a cool corner with a bolt protected face to finish.