Grohman Boulders - Nelson, B.C

GROHMAN BOULDERS

Incredible Granite within minutes of Nelson. Lots of classics here, a must for any visiting climber!

Grohman Boulders Topo/Guide

Classic Crack Climbs of the West Kootenay's

SUNSHINE CRACK - 5.8 - TRAD - GEAR TO 5" - 35M
Kinnaird Bluffs

Access: Located on the Open Book Wall at Kinnaird. Take the trail from the parking, hang a left and follow your nose (you can see it from the car unmistakably)

Climb: Splitter in every way, climb through beautiful ground to a wild layback, a small roof and a long wide crack all the way up! Jamming, good gear and a fine position for the grade.


RATTLESNAKE - 5.10C - TRAD - GEAR TO 2" - 15M
Kinnaird Bluffs

Access: As for 'Yellow Sling' wall but head up through the talus to the 'Squeeze Chimney' wall and a whole bunch of corners to where this crack is obvious.

Climb: Start up the easy ramp and into the seam/crack just right of the arete. Tricky gear and nice in cuts lead into the pumpy upper face and a wild finish. Hard considering the grade and length of it!

Tomas climbing the steep seam of  'RATTLESNAKE' 5.10c at Kinnaird

CROWBAR - 5.10D - TRAD - GEAR TO 3" - 25M

Kootenay Crag

Access: Park at the Rails to Trails trailhead at the very end of Elwyn St. near the Selkirk College Residence in Nelson. Bike or hike slightly downhill for 4kms to where the cliff will come into view on your right hand side. Walk up the base of the cliff to the obvious layback flake. 10 minutes on your bike or 1 hour on foot.

Climb: Head up past 3 bolts of slopey fun to a nice rest. Plug some gear and get ready for the beautifully sustained layback flake, with great gear!

Allen climbing the wild laybacks of 'CROWBAR' 5.10d at the Kootenay Crag

LIGHTNING CRACK - 5.11B - GEAR TO 2" - 30M

Kinnaird Bluffs

Access: From the parking head up the trail through the talus to where the trail meets the cliff. Look up this is it!

Climb: Climb up past a few bolts of (Daisy's Big Adventure) then swing onto the right hand face. A tricky sequence (small cams useful here) leads into the beautiful, steep, upper hand crack shaped light a lightning bolt. 

Tomas on 'LIGHTNING CRACK' 5.11b at Kinnaird Bluffs

THE GREAT KOOTENAY CORNER - 5.11A/B - GEAR TO 4" - 35M

Grohman Narrows

Access: Drive west out of Nelson past the first big bridge over the Kootenay River and hang your first right. Head up this road and take the left fork (Grohman FSR) for about 3km to a small pullout. Find the trailhead and follow it down to the edge of the cliff where you rappel into the canyon (you are rapping the corner) You need a 70m rope!!

Climb: Gain the nice initial corner then head up through two huge exposed roofs (cruxes) and the final sustained finger crack/corner. Take a full rack! 

Jason finishing up 'THE GREAT KOOTENAY CORNER' 5.11a/b at Grohman Narrows

COLUMBIA CORNER - 5.10D - TRAD - GEAR TO 3" - 30M

Lion's Head

Access: From the parking at the end of Horkoff Rd, head up the trail through the boulders and up to the far end of the cliff. Climb the wonderful first pitch of 'After School Special' 5.9 to a single belay bolt across the gully on your right.

Climb: From the belay, head up the fun broken crack/corner through many fun transitions and the big upper roof. A wild final pull out of the roof makes for an exciting finish to this exposed climb!

View from the 'COLUMBIA CORNER' 5.10D at Lion's Head

YELLOW SLING - 5.10B - TRAD - GEAR TO 4' - 30M

Kinnaird Bluffs

Access: From the parking head up the trail to the first cliff and hang a hard right follow this around the bend, through the talus and down to the 'Yellow Sling' wall amongst the huge boulders.

Climb: Head up through the easy ground and wedged blocks (fun) to the splitter finger crack. Bring small cams for the technical finish.

'YELLOW SLING' 10b, finger crack extrordinaire

THE PROFESSIONALS - 5.10D - GEAR TO 4" - 25M

Ovis Wall/Arrow Lake

Access: Park beside the trailhead at the pullout on the road just before Scotty's Marina. Head up the scappy trail for about 15 minutes to the great cliff full of broken corner systems.

Climb: Climb through the beautiful finger crack bulges to the wild arching/overhanging roof full of beautiful hand jams. Bring big gear for the upper section.

Tomas climbing at the OVIS WALL at Arrow Lakes

Recommended Route(s)

Kinnaird Bluffs is an amazing old-school crag located on the south end of Castlegar overlooking the whole Kootenay river valley. There are many classic lines here, as well as some new ones that have sprouted up in recent years. Most of the REALLY good stuff leans towards the fine cracks that are abundant at Kinnaird. 

A line I've often looked at but deemed run-out in the guidebook and quite dirty looking stood there probably not getting any attention for some time. It was time to clean and try Lightning Crack. It ascends the steep face just to the left of the big roof system, zigzagging back and forth forming a kind of lightning bolt looking feature. It climbs up through a tough crux transitioning into the main crack to where some huge moves, sick jams and good gear pump you all the way to the top. A highly recommended adventure.

Now, a new line, that shares the anchors with 'Lightning Crack', was put up by Aaron Kristiansen in 2011. It climbs the arete where the trail from the parking meets the cliff, basically the far right side of the Open Book Wall and the first route you run into at Kinnaird. It is an awesome route worth doing on it's own right, it forces you to climb out on the arete on sick rock with some amazing exposed moves.

With the addition of this new route, you can simply clip the first few bolts, transition right into the 'Lightning Crack' and climb this without it being run-out anymore. So, in addition to having a sick new (read:well bolted) sport climb, Lightning Crack has been re-cleaned and should become an instant classic around these parts. Both are a must if you can climb these grades. Have fun!

THE OPEN BOOK WALL (Right) - KINNAIRD BLUFFS - CASTLEGAR, B.C

A - Daisy's Big Adventure - 5.10+ - 30m - 11 Bolts - SPORT ***

Grade and crux are quite height dependant. Climb up to the arete on easy ground to where 2 cruxes greet you at both bulges. Awesome exposed jugs to the finish!

B - Lightning Crack - 5.11b - 30m - Gear to 2" - TRAD ***

Climb the first few bolts of 'Daisy's' then transition right onto the steep face. Pretty pumpy and tricky movements into the main crack (C3 BD Cam useful here) to where some flawless jamming and good gear continue up the overhanging face. Classic!

The Skaha Climbing Tick List

View from 'Slow Pitch, 10c' towards Penticton

As a rock climber you have probably been or heard of SKAHA if you are from the western part of Canada. It really has become THE spring/fall road trip destination in Western Canada and for good reason. Over the years I have had many special days at this wonderful place. With tons of variety, friendly climbing, good weather, beautiful lakes and great people, the list goes on. I thought I would put together a kind of TICK list (not to be confused with those dirty bastards out there looking to suck you blood) of routes that I have had the privilege of climbing (most of them) over my many visits. I thought that the list would maybe give you (the readers) a kind of goal or list of climbs you SHOULD get on when you are looking through the huge new guidebook full of climbs. Have fun and happy climbing!!

We will start at the bottom grades and work through to the higher, this will include Trad & Sport:
60 Routes In Total From 5.7 to 5.13d

1. Lichen in My Bellybutton/Granola Bar - 5.7 - 50m (2 Pitch Link-up) SPORT - FernGully
2. Skunked - 5.8 - 15m - TRAD - Elusive Edge
3. Black Widow - 5.8 - 20m - TRAD - Red Tail
4. Assholes Of August - 5.9 - 25m - TRAD - Upper Red Tail
5. Mea Culpa - 5.9 - 25m - SPORT - Blipvert Tower
6. The Dream - 5.9 - 15m - TRAD - The Turret
7. Double Exposure - 5.9 - 30m - TRAD - East Portal
8. Flying Flowers - 5.9 - 20m - TRAD - Morning Glory
9. Homer's Wake - 5.10a - 22m - SPORT - Claim-It-All
10. Vertical Bliss - 5.10a - 20m - SPORT - Claim-It-All
11. Ready 2 Strike - 5.10a - 30m - TRAD - Diamondback
12. Plumb Line - 5.10a - 35m - SPORT - The Fortress 
13. The Raven & The Bear - 5.10a - 30m - SPORT - Raven's Castle
14. Grassy Glades - 5.10a - 22m - TRAD - Grassy Glades
15. Golden Pie Crust Award - 5.10a - 15m - SPORT - Elusive Edge
16. Fun Run - 5.10a - 35m - TRAD - Great White
17. Looking Glass - 5.10a - 30m - SPORT - The Fortress
18. Watching Bananas Bend - 5.10b - 30m - SPORT - Screeching Wall
19. Logan's Run - 5.10b - 22m - SPORT - Great White
20. Mr.Muscle In A Bikini - 22m - SPORT - Muscle Beach
21. Life In The Slow Lane - 5.10b - 25m - SPORT - The Terraces
22. Stingo - 5.10c - 12m - TRAD - Elusive Edge
23. Slow Pitch - 5.10c - 60m (2 Pitches) - TRAD - The Prow
24. Gang Bang - 5.10c - 35m - TRAD - Great White
25. Dr.Crow - 5.10c - 30m - TRAD - Doctor's Wall
26. Genetic Mirror - 5.10b - 30m - SPORT - The Fortress
27. Minor Skirmish - 5.10c - 25m - SPORT - The Fortress
28. Sex Machine - 5.10d - 20m - SPORT - The Belfry 
29. The Beach is Over There - 5.10d - 22m - SPORT - Muscle Beach 
30. Ebbing Strength - 5.10d -  25m - SPORT - Ochre Wall
31. Falling Into Blackness - 5.10d - 25m - SPORT - Doctor's Wall
32. Here Doing This - 5.10d - 22m - SPORT - Morning Glory
33. Supercharger - 5.10+ - 25m - TRAD - Morning Glory
34. Evrily Hanging Out - 5.11a - 30m - TRAD - Great White
35. Beach Comber - 5.11a - 22m - SPORT - Muscle Beach
36. Naturopath - 5.11a - 30m - SPORT - Doctor's Wall
37. Surfin Skaha - 5.11a -  20m - SPORT - Jughall Wall
38. The Bottom Line - 5.11a - 30m - SPORT - The Belfry
39. The Real Special Forces - 5.11a - 25m - SPORT - The Fortress
40. Cocasion Blend - 5.11a - Little White
41. Being There - 5.11b - 22m - SPORT - Morning Glory
42. Light Duty Power Pack - 5.11b - 20m - SPORT - Werbworld
43. Unethical - 5.11b - 25m - SPORT - Doctor's Wall
44. Flight of the Fledgling - 5.11b - 30m - SPORT - Screeching Wall
45. Test of the Ironman - 5.11b - 35m - SPORT - Great White
46. Isis In Chains - 5.11c - 30m - SPORT - Screeching Wall
47. Banana Bypass - 5.11c - 25m - SPORT - Maternal Wall
48. Wings of Desire - 5.11c - 35m - SPORT - Great White
49. Fourteen Shutouts - 5.11c - 25m - SPORT - Morning Glory
50. 20 Speed Comfort - 5.11c - 25m - SPORT - Diamondback
51. Smoke N' Crack - 5.11d - 25m - MIXED - The Belfry
52. Lost In Paradise - 5.11d - 22m - SPORT - Werbworld
53. A Step Beyond - 5.11d - 20m - SPORT - Blazing Buttress
54. Not Fade Away - 5.12a - 18m - SPORT - The Wave
55. Salvation - 5.12a - 25m - SPORT - Doctor's Wall
56. Blade Runner - 5.12a - 25m - SPORT - The Belfry
57. Beached Whale - 5.12b - 22m - SPORT - Muscle Beach
58. Pumping It At The Beach - 5.12c - 22m - SPORT - Muscle Beach
59. 12 Step Derailer - 5.13a - 25m - SPORT - Blipvert Tower
60. The Replicant - 5.13d - 25m - SPORT - The Belfry

Recommended Route

 A wonderful route located in a great position with lots of atmosphere. Sounds pretty great for a route shorter than 20m, but this little aesthetic climb is worth taking the 2 minute walk from the road to sample the fun. Situated high above Arrow Lake on the Waterfall Wall (there is a spring waterfall located right beside you) the roaring water and great sustained climbing is all you need and did I mention that this is also a sun trap :) Hopefully in the future there will be more to come around these parts, because the routes are a lot of fun..

KUNG FU MAGOO 5.10D - 7 BOLTS - SPORT - 18M
FA - A.Kristiansen 2011

Approach: Drive down towards Syringa Provincial Park on Broadwater Rd. (see other route topos on this page for more details) to where you come across Scotty's Marina. About 150m past this you will see a waterfall on your right with a big cliff to the right of this. If you hit a bend in the road you've gone too far and you are probably near the Zebra Wall. There is a pullout directly across from this route, take the marked trail in the forest for about 2 minutes to the base of this route on the left most prow.

The Climb: Pull a very bouldery move off the deck (low bolt) to an aesthetic crack/seam, follow this through tricky, sustained ground to a delicate finish. Highly Recommended!

Pub Wall - Lion's Head - Castlegar Rock

This is gotta be the shortest approach to a crag ever! And with beer nearby, this is a place you gotta go see for yourself :) It's called the Pub Wall and it's located beside the Lion's Head Pub (yes beside) in Robson (basically attached to Castlegar) and is a total sun trap. The climbing consists of technical, high quality, low angle face climbing on really good Gneiss. The cruxes tend to be down low and a bit sneaky, especially on the harder routes. Aside from the crack on the far right (great) its all generously bolted and has good fixed stations. There are two pitches on the upper wall that serve as nice 2 pitch options, or one long pitch linked with two raps to descend (about 40m) that are worth the effort. As a side note, like many other crags on Lion's Head, access is touchy so don't go treading where it looks like peoples backyards and try to keep the place clean and as you left it!!

As some added fun I present a CHALLENGE!! Climb all 9 pitches in a day, its totally do-able. Give it a shot a go celebrate with a nice BC Craft beer at the pub!

For full updates on these and many other areas in the West Kootenay. Head to http://climbthekoots.org/

Approach:
From Nelson, drive towards Castlegar, and right after the big Brilliant Dam, turn right and follow the blue signs towards 'Syringa Provincial Park' & the community of Robson. Drive down this road for a few km's, past the Pass Creek Rd. turnoff, to your next turn off on the right; this is Broadwater Rd. Follow Broadwater for 1.1km to the Lion's Head Pub right after the 'TEMPO' gas station on your right.
Park & Play :)

Lion's Head - Pub Wall:

1 - Pub Fight - 5.10d - 15m - SPORT *
The farthest route on the left. Climb up the ramp and into the steep face. Some dirty slopers and a very awkward crux lead through the bulge. Easier incut climbing ensues…

2 - Pub Crawl - 5.10b - 23m - SPORT **
Climb the ramp right off the boulder pedestal/belay to a little ledge, some non existent holds and fancy footwork lead you up into the technical, beautiful upper face. Lower here on continue on up the next pitch

3 - Walk it Off - 5.9 - 22m - SPORT *
Climb just to right of 'Pub Crawl' to the same little ledge. Continue up the balance-y slab. Lower or continue on.

3b - A beautiful corner weakness feature flows to the top of the cliff with some nice exposed moves, especially up high…..worthy!!! Second pitch of 'Pub Crawl'

4 - Bender - 5.10a - 20m - SPORT **
Climb up the ramp, undercling traverse out and to the right and pull over a fun little bulge. Easier balance-y stuff leads you to the top. Cool!

4b - Climb up this second pitch through slabs and some steeper terrain up high. Second pitch of 'Walk it Off'

5 - In Like A Lion - 5.10d - 20m -SPORT *
Climb up the tricky ramp to an in your face bulge. Watch your third clip, she's tricky pulling over. Fun techy face climbing brings you to the top.

6 - Bar Star - 5.10d - 22m - SPORT ***
Start up the steep, beautiful, right facing feature on slopers and laybacks to a sustained technical section up high. Some cool huecos finish off the route. A little different than the rest and my vote for the best route on the cliff!

7 - Deep Fried Pickles - 5.9 - TRAD - GEAR to 1" - 15m **
The nice finger crack on the far right. Climb up easy ground to a steep finger crack, look for the bomber nut placements along the way :)

Note: There are some other climbs around the right of the cliff but access is tricky here. The come in a 10b (trad) and a nice 2 pitch 5.8 (sport)

Lion's Head - Castlegar Rock Climbing

Tomas climbing 'Bucket Of Bolts'

Driving into the little area called Robson near Castlegar you can't help but look up at the giant cliff looming above. This is Lion's Head. I would call the rock very high quality and made up of a type of Granitic Gneiss. Steep on almost all aspects there is only a limited amount of development that has gone on here and hopefully more to come. There is a fun wall located just behind the Lion's Head Pub (also highly recommended) that I will include in the future, but for now enjoy this little topo of the West side of the cliff. Keep in mind that access is touchy to much of this area and please do all you can to help clean and maintain this area for future climbing/use. Oh ya…. and as a plus, it was already 15 degrees and sunny here as of mid-March, so it is a sun TRAP!! and perfect for spring/fall climbing. Enjoy :)

Approach:
From Nelson, drive towards Castlegar, and right after the big Brilliant Dam, turn right and follow the blue signs towards 'Syringa Provincial Park' & the community of Robson. Drive down this road for a few km's, past the Pass Creek Rd. turnoff, to your next turn off on the right; this is Broadwater Rd. Follow Broadwater for 1.6km past the Lion's Head Pub and turn right onto Horkoff Rd. You quickly go a little uphill and then through a little neighbourhood. Follow this road towards the cliff and to where the road ends. Park here at a little pull off (not in front of peoples houses) and take the trail leading into the woods. Follow the pink flagging along the base of the forest (to the left/west) to where cairns and more flagging lead you through the boulders up and around to the far left end of the cliff, 10 minutes from the car. I wouldn't recommend heading straight up to the wall, a heinous bushwhack will probably ensue.

LION'S HEAD 
(West)

1 - Bone Cracker - 5.10d - Mixed - 45m - Gear to 2" **
This fun route starts in the steep obvious finger crack on the first wall. Climb through tricky mixed to a bolted anchor on the ledge (10d). The second pitch tackles the steep hand crack above and to the right (10d). Bring lots of small gear. You could also continue up the left bolted line (#2) to make one nice 35m long pitch (recommended variation)

2 - Daisy's Big Day Out - 5.11a - Sport - 38m **
Start just to the right of the steep finger crack. Climb through crimpy, technical ground past bolts to the anchor at the ledge (10b). From here the route trends up and to the left of the ledge to a nice steep section of bolted climbing, the crux comes up high (11a). Both of these routes can be done/linked up together depending on what you feel like climbing. All the climbing is excellent!

3 - After School Special - 5.9 - Sport - 45m *** (2 Pitches)
Climb the arete left of the gully on the far right side of the wall. The first pitch tackles the arete proper through beautiful juggy climbing (25m). The second pitch is shorter but the first moves off the belay are fantastic! A great novice multi-pitch route with a fine position and comfy belays! Highly recommended!

4 - Columbia Corner - 5.10d - Trad - 30m - Gear to 3" ***
A fine gear battle! Shuffle over the gully from the first belay of #3 to a single bolt belay on the ledge. Climb the beautiful left facing corner to the exposed roof up high and a exciting finish. Bring everything….

5 - Bucket of Bolts - 5.10a - Sport - 65m ** (3 Pitches)
A fun multi pitch adventure with fine views and nice exposure.
You have 3 choices to start, explained left to right;  Climb up into the roof and some burly moves (tricky) and gain the climbing above (10+). The original start, climb up through the juggy little roof and into the slab above (10a). Or climb the dirty crack (which could be good if cleaned) and into the slab above (5.7).

All of these lead into some fun slab climbing and then juggy lay backing above. The second pitch is really the highlight of the route, exposed and delicate face climbing that lead to a huge ledge and comfy belay with a view. You can finish the route by climbing a short 5.6 pitch that will see you to the top of the cliff. Rappel the route.

Getting onto the beauty second pitch of "Bucket of Bolts"

Freshened Up For 2014!

It's been a long while since I have put some real effort into updating this site. Sorry for the long delay :)

Fortunately I have updated the links/downloads page so that all the links to the downloads now work and you don't have to go through a stupid virus filled share site (the reason why none of the links worked anymore). Having said that if you find a link on the blog itself that doesn't work, just head to the 'Download It' tab bar and it should have a working updated version.

Either than that the posts will now again continue to flow! Please comment here if you have any questions and I would love to help!!!

 I hope everyone is having a great winter wherever they are and I will post a few new shots to get you stoked!

Happy skiing/climbing all!!!

Slightly Stoopid.....

An amazing group of musicians that have really perfected their sounds of reggae, rock, funk and many other styles into one of my personal favorites. Their newer album Top of the World is among their best. They recently recorded a live jam/session that will now become my soundtrack for the summer! Check it out, listen or buy it, it's really good. And if you havent heard them before this is your chance. Have a beautiful chill and sunny summer!!!

Link: Live @ Roberto's TRI Studios Jam/Recording 

 OCEAN

  

SERIOUS MAN

Nelson Bouldering on Facebook

Climbing high above the tracks and the Grohman Boulders

Ladybird Roof!

With tons of potential and already many great problems Nelson & the West Kootenays provide a great bouldering experience. I created a Facebook page for everyone to congregate that is open to anyone with an account.

This will hopefully be a great place to search for partners, beta, topos (will be uploaded direct to Facebook for a quick and free download), and post photos, etc..

Here is a printable photo topo (directions) to the wonderful 'PASS CREEK' Bouldering area near the Slocan Valley 45 minutes from Nelson as well! Mostly tougher climbs here V4 and up but the Ladybird Boulder located directly beside Ladybird Creek, 2 seconds from the car is a destination in itself (Photo topo included as well!) High Quality!!!

And a big thank you goes out to Marcus Norman from Calgary for all the great info and beta! (That's his photo topo!!!)

Enjoy it out there!

Nelson Bouldering Facebook Group 

LADYBIRD BOULDER

Access:
From the pullout on the left walk back 10m to a cairn and piece of flagging directing you down to the creek and the Ladybird Boulder.... hard to miss.

Problems:

1 - Ladybug Traverse - V2 ** 
Start far left on the face on two good holds then traverse to your right eventually out onto the lip and finish on the arete (note: a project continues past the arete and climbs the whole lip to the far right). Good warm-up!

2 - Ladybird Roof Left - V5 **
Start the same as the 'Ladybird Roof' problem but bust out to the arete on nicer holds and a juggier finish.

3 - Ladybird Roof - V7 ***
Start with a crimp and a sloper down low in the cave, now work your way out and right through a few fun sequences and a tough move right before the lip. Finish up and right. Excellent Quality! 

4 - Babylon - V9 ***
Another great problem requiring some tension filled moves. Start down low and the gain the nice slopey rail to a couple of small edges and a final chuck for the lip!

5 - Ladybird Roof Crack - V5 **
Start deep in the cave and climb the obvious off-width roof crack, burly!!!

Note: There are also a few more problems that have been done on the far right of the cave and there is a project going straight up the middle as well as some other on the mellow face on the far left. These have not been included to to lack of proper info....

Some boulder piling has been done recently to help with the creek waters that filter under the cave, feel free to add to this to make for a better landing. :)

Jason working 'Late For The Party' V7 at the Pass Creek Boulders