Pub Wall - Lion's Head - Castlegar Rock

This is gotta be the shortest approach to a crag ever! And with beer nearby, this is a place you gotta go see for yourself :) It's called the Pub Wall and it's located beside the Lion's Head Pub (yes beside) in Robson (basically attached to Castlegar) and is a total sun trap. The climbing consists of technical, high quality, low angle face climbing on really good Gneiss. The cruxes tend to be down low and a bit sneaky, especially on the harder routes. Aside from the crack on the far right (great) its all generously bolted and has good fixed stations. There are two pitches on the upper wall that serve as nice 2 pitch options, or one long pitch linked with two raps to descend (about 40m) that are worth the effort. As a side note, like many other crags on Lion's Head, access is touchy so don't go treading where it looks like peoples backyards and try to keep the place clean and as you left it!!

As some added fun I present a CHALLENGE!! Climb all 9 pitches in a day, its totally do-able. Give it a shot a go celebrate with a nice BC Craft beer at the pub!

For full updates on these and many other areas in the West Kootenay. Head to http://climbthekoots.org/

Approach:
From Nelson, drive towards Castlegar, and right after the big Brilliant Dam, turn right and follow the blue signs towards 'Syringa Provincial Park' & the community of Robson. Drive down this road for a few km's, past the Pass Creek Rd. turnoff, to your next turn off on the right; this is Broadwater Rd. Follow Broadwater for 1.1km to the Lion's Head Pub right after the 'TEMPO' gas station on your right.
Park & Play :)

Lion's Head - Pub Wall:

1 - Pub Fight - 5.10d - 15m - SPORT *
The farthest route on the left. Climb up the ramp and into the steep face. Some dirty slopers and a very awkward crux lead through the bulge. Easier incut climbing ensues…

2 - Pub Crawl - 5.10b - 23m - SPORT **
Climb the ramp right off the boulder pedestal/belay to a little ledge, some non existent holds and fancy footwork lead you up into the technical, beautiful upper face. Lower here on continue on up the next pitch

3 - Walk it Off - 5.9 - 22m - SPORT *
Climb just to right of 'Pub Crawl' to the same little ledge. Continue up the balance-y slab. Lower or continue on.

3b - A beautiful corner weakness feature flows to the top of the cliff with some nice exposed moves, especially up high…..worthy!!! Second pitch of 'Pub Crawl'

4 - Bender - 5.10a - 20m - SPORT **
Climb up the ramp, undercling traverse out and to the right and pull over a fun little bulge. Easier balance-y stuff leads you to the top. Cool!

4b - Climb up this second pitch through slabs and some steeper terrain up high. Second pitch of 'Walk it Off'

5 - In Like A Lion - 5.10d - 20m -SPORT *
Climb up the tricky ramp to an in your face bulge. Watch your third clip, she's tricky pulling over. Fun techy face climbing brings you to the top.

6 - Bar Star - 5.10d - 22m - SPORT ***
Start up the steep, beautiful, right facing feature on slopers and laybacks to a sustained technical section up high. Some cool huecos finish off the route. A little different than the rest and my vote for the best route on the cliff!

7 - Deep Fried Pickles - 5.9 - TRAD - GEAR to 1" - 15m **
The nice finger crack on the far right. Climb up easy ground to a steep finger crack, look for the bomber nut placements along the way :)

Note: There are some other climbs around the right of the cliff but access is tricky here. The come in a 10b (trad) and a nice 2 pitch 5.8 (sport)

Lion's Head - Castlegar Rock Climbing

Tomas climbing 'Bucket Of Bolts'

Driving into the little area called Robson near Castlegar you can't help but look up at the giant cliff looming above. This is Lion's Head. I would call the rock very high quality and made up of a type of Granitic Gneiss. Steep on almost all aspects there is only a limited amount of development that has gone on here and hopefully more to come. There is a fun wall located just behind the Lion's Head Pub (also highly recommended) that I will include in the future, but for now enjoy this little topo of the West side of the cliff. Keep in mind that access is touchy to much of this area and please do all you can to help clean and maintain this area for future climbing/use. Oh ya…. and as a plus, it was already 15 degrees and sunny here as of mid-March, so it is a sun TRAP!! and perfect for spring/fall climbing. Enjoy :)

Approach:
From Nelson, drive towards Castlegar, and right after the big Brilliant Dam, turn right and follow the blue signs towards 'Syringa Provincial Park' & the community of Robson. Drive down this road for a few km's, past the Pass Creek Rd. turnoff, to your next turn off on the right; this is Broadwater Rd. Follow Broadwater for 1.6km past the Lion's Head Pub and turn right onto Horkoff Rd. You quickly go a little uphill and then through a little neighbourhood. Follow this road towards the cliff and to where the road ends. Park here at a little pull off (not in front of peoples houses) and take the trail leading into the woods. Follow the pink flagging along the base of the forest (to the left/west) to where cairns and more flagging lead you through the boulders up and around to the far left end of the cliff, 10 minutes from the car. I wouldn't recommend heading straight up to the wall, a heinous bushwhack will probably ensue.

LION'S HEAD 
(West)

1 - Bone Cracker - 5.10d - Mixed - 45m - Gear to 2" **
This fun route starts in the steep obvious finger crack on the first wall. Climb through tricky mixed to a bolted anchor on the ledge (10d). The second pitch tackles the steep hand crack above and to the right (10d). Bring lots of small gear. You could also continue up the left bolted line (#2) to make one nice 35m long pitch (recommended variation)

2 - Daisy's Big Day Out - 5.11a - Sport - 38m **
Start just to the right of the steep finger crack. Climb through crimpy, technical ground past bolts to the anchor at the ledge (10b). From here the route trends up and to the left of the ledge to a nice steep section of bolted climbing, the crux comes up high (11a). Both of these routes can be done/linked up together depending on what you feel like climbing. All the climbing is excellent!

3 - After School Special - 5.9 - Sport - 45m *** (2 Pitches)
Climb the arete left of the gully on the far right side of the wall. The first pitch tackles the arete proper through beautiful juggy climbing (25m). The second pitch is shorter but the first moves off the belay are fantastic! A great novice multi-pitch route with a fine position and comfy belays! Highly recommended!

4 - Columbia Corner - 5.10d - Trad - 30m - Gear to 3" ***
A fine gear battle! Shuffle over the gully from the first belay of #3 to a single bolt belay on the ledge. Climb the beautiful left facing corner to the exposed roof up high and a exciting finish. Bring everything….

5 - Bucket of Bolts - 5.10a - Sport - 65m ** (3 Pitches)
A fun multi pitch adventure with fine views and nice exposure.
You have 3 choices to start, explained left to right;  Climb up into the roof and some burly moves (tricky) and gain the climbing above (10+). The original start, climb up through the juggy little roof and into the slab above (10a). Or climb the dirty crack (which could be good if cleaned) and into the slab above (5.7).

All of these lead into some fun slab climbing and then juggy lay backing above. The second pitch is really the highlight of the route, exposed and delicate face climbing that lead to a huge ledge and comfy belay with a view. You can finish the route by climbing a short 5.6 pitch that will see you to the top of the cliff. Rappel the route.

Getting onto the beauty second pitch of "Bucket of Bolts"

Freshened Up For 2014!

It's been a long while since I have put some real effort into updating this site. Sorry for the long delay :)

Fortunately I have updated the links/downloads page so that all the links to the downloads now work and you don't have to go through a stupid virus filled share site (the reason why none of the links worked anymore). Having said that if you find a link on the blog itself that doesn't work, just head to the 'Download It' tab bar and it should have a working updated version.

Either than that the posts will now again continue to flow! Please comment here if you have any questions and I would love to help!!!

 I hope everyone is having a great winter wherever they are and I will post a few new shots to get you stoked!

Happy skiing/climbing all!!!

Slightly Stoopid.....

An amazing group of musicians that have really perfected their sounds of reggae, rock, funk and many other styles into one of my personal favorites. Their newer album Top of the World is among their best. They recently recorded a live jam/session that will now become my soundtrack for the summer! Check it out, listen or buy it, it's really good. And if you havent heard them before this is your chance. Have a beautiful chill and sunny summer!!!

Link: Live @ Roberto's TRI Studios Jam/Recording 

 OCEAN

  

SERIOUS MAN

Nelson Bouldering on Facebook

Climbing high above the tracks and the Grohman Boulders

Ladybird Roof!

With tons of potential and already many great problems Nelson & the West Kootenays provide a great bouldering experience. I created a Facebook page for everyone to congregate that is open to anyone with an account.

This will hopefully be a great place to search for partners, beta, topos (will be uploaded direct to Facebook for a quick and free download), and post photos, etc..

Here is a printable photo topo (directions) to the wonderful 'PASS CREEK' Bouldering area near the Slocan Valley 45 minutes from Nelson as well! Mostly tougher climbs here V4 and up but the Ladybird Boulder located directly beside Ladybird Creek, 2 seconds from the car is a destination in itself (Photo topo included as well!) High Quality!!!

And a big thank you goes out to Marcus Norman from Calgary for all the great info and beta! (That's his photo topo!!!)

Enjoy it out there!

Nelson Bouldering Facebook Group 

LADYBIRD BOULDER

Access:
From the pullout on the left walk back 10m to a cairn and piece of flagging directing you down to the creek and the Ladybird Boulder.... hard to miss.

Problems:

1 - Ladybug Traverse - V2 ** 
Start far left on the face on two good holds then traverse to your right eventually out onto the lip and finish on the arete (note: a project continues past the arete and climbs the whole lip to the far right). Good warm-up!

2 - Ladybird Roof Left - V5 **
Start the same as the 'Ladybird Roof' problem but bust out to the arete on nicer holds and a juggier finish.

3 - Ladybird Roof - V7 ***
Start with a crimp and a sloper down low in the cave, now work your way out and right through a few fun sequences and a tough move right before the lip. Finish up and right. Excellent Quality! 

4 - Babylon - V9 ***
Another great problem requiring some tension filled moves. Start down low and the gain the nice slopey rail to a couple of small edges and a final chuck for the lip!

5 - Ladybird Roof Crack - V5 **
Start deep in the cave and climb the obvious off-width roof crack, burly!!!

Note: There are also a few more problems that have been done on the far right of the cave and there is a project going straight up the middle as well as some other on the mellow face on the far left. These have not been included to to lack of proper info....

Some boulder piling has been done recently to help with the creek waters that filter under the cave, feel free to add to this to make for a better landing. :)

Jason working 'Late For The Party' V7 at the Pass Creek Boulders

Recommended Route!

Recently I got on a fantastic 3 pitch route at Kinnaird Bluffs in Castlegar, B.C called Hail Mary. The climbing was adventurous considering that you were looking down on a wannabee suburbia development. There was bomber gear the whole way and it took some fun route finding while en route to spot the right crack (the were many running vertically down the wall). Climbed and graded many years ago, expect mostly 5.8 climbing with a couple of thoughtful (5.10a) moves and you'll be alright. All the belays are bolted, the rock is good and the climb hosts tons of fun jams, stems and even a ringlock crux. All in all a fantastic climb with some great positions!

Approach:
The one correction I'd like to add is that in the guide the directions say to start at the far parking lot on the dirt road and walk along a trail at the base of the cliffs but going this way is really long and there is no trail anymore (if there was ever one). I recommend spotting the cliff (and the gravel lot underneath it) just off of 37th St, park down on the dirt road mentioned in the guidebook but instead walk back down the road to the gravel lot (between 2 houses) and up the scree to the cliff. From the end of the scree a faint trail leads to a cleared gear up spot amongst all the bush under the big roof! This brings the total walking time to a mellow 10 minutes instead of a 35 minute bushwack (while trying to avoid poison ivy) but all the while still trying to keep a low profile. :)

The Route:
Start in a blocky left facing corner feature immediately to the left of the giant roof (the only possible place to gear up). Once past the corner keep moving right on a good ledge (bring long slings) and up a really nice vertical finger to hand crack and arete, belay from a nice alcove/ledge, 30m. Second pitch; Climb the open book corner feature to a cruxy bulge (a little tree is still growing here) and another comfy belay alcove, 30m. Third pitch; Move left on to the face and climb the vertical cracks to where the cliff ends! 25m.

HAIL MARY
5.8 - Trad - Gear to 4"
3 Pitches - 75m ***

Grohman Boulders - Nelson, B.C

On The Axe V3 at the Cave Boulders

Grohman offers a wonderful, high quality, granite bouldering experience very close to Nelson. Included here is a link to a brief topo to get you climbing at this great area (and some fun pics as well!). Have fun and happy climbing!!

Link:
Nelson Bouldering Facebook Page - Grohman Guidebook Free Download

Walking back

Track Crack V0

Good views back towards Nelson

GOTHAM CITY - Nelson, B.C - Rock Climbing

Today was a great summery day here in Nelson, so we decided to go check out this wonderful little secluded crag called Gotham City near the little town of Ymir. If you are looking for a good days worth of friendly sport climbing not far from town, then this is the place.

Hidden down amongst the trees right off the highway in a quiet spot, Gotham City hosts 13 great little sport routes on very well featured rock. The highest being about 15 meters, all the climbs pack a lot of fun in a very short time. There is something for everyone here from 5.9 to 5.11a with a bunch of great steep, sustained climbs around the 10a-10d range. The rock varies from granite, to basalt and even a little limestone-ish stuff near the bottom of the Bat Wall. All the climbs are bolted well and have great stations accessible from a trail that leads to the top that makes for some very easy top roping. Keep in mind this is a new area and of a fractured nature. Expect loose rock and some little blocks coming off time to time. Again a wonderful area that faces south and makes for a great day 20 minutes from Nelson.

Thanks to Shaun King from Mountain Sense for the development of the area! (All of the FA's are credited to S.King as well 2011)

ACCESS:
From the 4-way stop in Nelson (reset your odometer) at the end of Baker St. follow Highway 3A south towards Salmo. You will pass the turnoff to Whitewater at 11.6kms, keep driving and after a few minutes you will end up at a big straight stretch of road. At the end of this straight strectch you will see the Hall Siding Crag on your right at about 18kms. Pass this crag and drive another 500m to 18.5kms where you will see a grassy pullout/field on your left with an ashphalt cairn. Park here but be careful of the lip on the curb for a low-clearance vehicle, especially on the way out. Now walk back on the powerline cut road (north) to a little uphill and a small rock step on your right. Turn sharply to the right here following cairns and pink flagging tape into the forest where a nice trail leads you down to the crag. A total of about 10 minutes from the car.

GOTHAM CITY

bat WALL

1 - ALFRED - 5.6 - SPORT - 4 BOLTS - 12M
A good beginner lead or solo, big holds!

2 - BRUCE WAYNE - 5.8 - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 12M 
Climb the corner/arete on some big features

3 - THE JOKER - 5.10A - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 14M *
Climb the fun, juggy overhang and finish just left of the roof

4 - BATMAN - 5.10C - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M ***
Climb up some more basalt jugs with cool pinches, make some big moves through the roof and it's over. Fun climb!

5 - THE DARK KNIGHT - 5.10D - SPORT - 6 BOLTS - 15M *
A direct start to 'Batman', a few small holds leave you more pumped by the time you hit the roof.

6 - CATWOMAN - 5.10D - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M **
A cruxy/bouldery start through some limestone-y rock that will make your arms tired and then into a juggy finish up the steep little corner feature. Good!

7 - THE RIDDLER - 5.10B/C - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M ***
Great incut holds that lead into a hard (especially if your short) transition into the corner. Flowy climbing to the top, real good!

8 - THIS TOWN NEEDS AN ENEMA - 5.11A - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M *
Climb up good holds and pull the wild roof, easier climbing ensues.

robin WALL

1 - HOLY SMOKES BATMAN - 5.9 - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M *
Climb the nicely steep featured face on the far left. Nice warm-up

2 - BOY WONDER - 5.10A/B - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M ***
Climb the steep arete to a wild layaway move midway. A fun thoughtful climb!

3 - TWO FACE - 5.10A - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 13M *
Hard to start without straying off on another climb but the rest of the route climbs well

4 - BAT GIRL - 5.10A - SPORT - 4 BOLTS -12M
Climb the blocky (some sketchy stuff here) corner to a cool transition through the roof and onto the upper arete/face

5 - DICK GRAYSON - 5.9 - SPORT - 4 BOLTS - 12M
Climb the short face on the far right with some good features

ELLISON Provincial Park New Climbing Guidebook

A cumulative effort of 3 years of climbing at Ellison Park and all the great times I had down there on Okanagan Lake I leave this guide as a testament to the my love for the little climbing area with lots character! Farewell Vernon........

2013 - Ellison Guidebook: The Guide

And a few photos of all the good times!!!

Brandon Rollin coming up the classic 'WhoDUNNIT 5.8'

A typical night session evening

Me putting together the pieces on 'Rockin in the Free World 5.12b'

Josh Ververda session the 'Traverse'

Summer sesh at the boulder traverse at 'Lakeside Cliff'

Me on the 'Beach Boulder'

John Dyck heading up 'BUTLER 5.10b'

Cody Thompson on the 'Traverse'

Me on the 'Traverse' solo

Top of 'WHODUNNIT 5.7' and stoked (late October)

Me bolting the 'DARK KNIGHT' 5.10+

Okanagan Bouldering

Author on 'The Mistress V10' at Cougar Canyon

A fellow route developer/guide book author/avid climber Andy has put together a wonderful blog about Bouldering in the Okanagan, I will let it do the talking, but needless to say if you need any info or have any questions this is where to look! There is also lots of route updates on here!!

The bouldering is really good in the Okanagan valley and it just keeps on getting better, with new routes/problems going up all the time, this should be on the must visit list for all the boulderers out there!

The Blog: Okanagan Bouldering PAGE

Okanagan Bouldering Areas