Kamloops Rock Guide Update

View from the Beach

Here is another addition to the updates for the 2012 season's rock guides. Kamloops has a great selection of climbing crags and there seems to be a little something for everyone. My personal favorite is Roche Lake (with the ample lakeside ((free)) camping nearby and good fishing), but for those who have not visited the area, The Beach, Hen House, Prickly Pear and Oregon Jack Bouldering are all unique areas that offer a something a little different. Along with the awesome climate, quiet areas and loads of camping, you should definitely put Kamloops on your list for a visit.

Here's the link to the new Guidebook, Thanks Trevor! Check out the great site CLIMBKAMLOOPS as well for all your area info!
Guide Link: New Kamloops Rock Guide 2012

Drew Nylen at the Beach

West Kootenay Rock Guide Update 2012

Vince Hempsall (One of the authors of the guidebook) at Arrow Lakes

With many new additions to an already nice guidebook, this update really shows these guys (gals) have been very busy around Nelson & Castlegar. It looks like Arrow Lakes crag has really seen some traffic and is shaping up to be a really nice area. As well, just around Ymir (pronounced 'Y-Mmer, a few minutes drive from Nelson) there are a few more really nice looking crags that have popped up full of juggy granite. All in all looks like the Kootenay's are turning out to have some good climbing hidden in those trees, I certainly psyched to go check out all these new routes!

Check out the awesome website CLIMB THE KOOTS for all you area updates and info!!
2012 Link to new Updates: New Climbing Update

Recommended Route(s)

Night view from Cedar Park Parking Lot

SPIDERMAN 5.10B/C - GEAR to 4" - 22M
Located on the Yellow Wall at Cedar Park Crag in Kelowna, this fun climb starts with a little burly off-width (that you can get sport-like overkill by bringing a Camalot #3, #4 and #5) that leads into a steep corner (crux). The remainder of the climb offers sinker fingers, steep aesthetic moves and good gear. Amazing that I never see anyone trying this. A must!

One of the best parts of this climb is that you can climb an amazing mixed 5.11a off the same anchors. This one requires delicate moves up the first half to a steeper pumpy finish that really is quite exhilarating.  It's called Pull Off My Lichen 5.11a - 2 Bolts - Gear to 1" - 22m

For those not aware of Cedar Park in Kelowna. Let me explain; amazing rock (solid like Skaha) steep pumpy routes, crimpy & steep face routes, cracks, easy stuff, 3 pitch route, south facing (aka climb in winter) ticks, full length climbs, aesthetic, mostly 3 star routes, good view, close to Kelowna, hot in summer (too much) and no crowds. Need I say more?!!

Ryan on top of a great route at Cedar Park

Climb Smarter & Safer

I've seen it a hundred times, and Im sure some of you out there have too. Recently I witnessed an incident at a local crag where the belayer really got yanked up the wall, making the situation crappy for the climber and belayer. After the incident the climbing couple felt weary about trying any difficult climbs. I think careful planning and good belay techniques can help to avoid these kind of situations. Posted here is a great write up from Climbing magazine to help with it!

Stop the Flying Circus

By Dave Sheldon / Illustrations by Jamie Givens

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How to belay a heavier leader

People whose partners outweigh them by 25 pounds or more routinely get yanked off the ground when catching sport-climbing leader falls.  

Although this phenomenon is disconcerting at first, it can be perfectly safe with a few simple precautions—and it provides a nice, soft catch for the climber. Some climbers recommend anchoring a light belayer to the ground, but this may cause the falling leader to experience a hard, shocking fall. In most cases, allowing a sport-climbing belayer to move around decreases the chance of injury to the leader and belayer, and also lowers the force applied to the system.

POSITION
When belaying, stand directly under the first bolt. Should the leader fall, this ensures you will be lifted straight upward, not dragged across the ground or scraped along the side of the cliff.

SHOE UP
Wear sturdy, closed-toed shoes: no flip-flops! As you’re yanked upward, both hands will be occupied with holding the rope, so it’s your feet that keep your body away from the rock. In a hard fall, the forces can be violent, so belay gloves and—if you’re not too cool—a helmet also are recommended.

CLEARANCE
If the first bolt is close to the ground, consider having the leader unclip it after clipping the second bolt; this will prevent you from being yanked up into the first quickdraw. Or, use an extra-long stick clip to bypass the first bolt, eliminating the down-climbing and unclipping shenanigans.

TERRAIN
Scan the rock under the first bolt or two, following your likely path of upward trajectory. Are there any rock spikes or nasty overhangs to be wary of, or is the wall smooth and forgiving? Visualize where you might impact the rock—hopefully feet first—at three, five, or 10 feet off the ground. If there is a chance of being yanked into something nasty, find another climb or recruit a heavier belayer.

BE READY
When the leader pitches off, hold on tight and prepare for liftoff. Do not jump! If the leader is low on the climb, consider dropping down on one knee. This will increase the distance between belayer and leader by a foot or two, which might be just enough to prevent climber and belayer from knocking into each other. If a collision is unavoidable, turn your head away, keep your mouth shut to protect your jaw, and don’t let go of the rope with your brake hand.

STAY NIMBLE
As you get pulled, keep your feet underneath you— the movement feels sort of like a speedy rappel in reverse. Your goal is to leave the ground in balance.

COMMUNICATE
Holds break, wasps fly out of holes—a good belayer should be prepared for a fall at any time. Still, the leader can help. When a fall seems like a distinct possibility, calling out, “Watch me!” puts the belayer on high alert.

Revelstoke's Victor Lake Wall

The Victor Lake Wall offers some unreal climbing in a unbelievable setting, located just outside Revelstoke, if you are climbing in the 10c to the 11d range with the occasional gear placement this is the place for you! Good quality quartzite multipitch climbing over steep ground with lots of aesthetic moves is the idea here. Included here is a link to the awesome Revelstoke Rock Climbing webpage that gives you the complete lowdown on the climbing here along with many other areas in the Revy region. Some awesome south facing long routes are awaiting those seeking some adventure!!

Link: Victor Lake Wall

Cougar Canyon Bouldering Guide 2012

 After lots of work, photo taking, trail maintenance, brushing, tree chopping, rock moving, and sending; Cougar Canyon's Bouldering has taken off. Can you believe I saw over 15 people Bouldering down there the other weekend. Trails are getting defined, there are shouts of beta echoing around the canyon, there is chalk evidence all over the classics, and people have finally realized one main thing; the climbing is good down here!!!

Partly due to this high amount of traffic and the many new problems, I have put together one final 'new' high quality guidebook for the Bouldering in Cougar Canyon (3rd edition) but where this guide differs from the others is the detail. Color photos, lots of area information, more detailed directions/beta and some fun route icons are just a few of the new features. The guide will be available through True Outdoors (old Valhalla) locations in the Okanagan Valley (high quality prints) and for free download here on this webblog. Get out there and enjoy all that Cougar Canyon has to offer and have a great summer!!!
 A.

Guide: Cougar Bouldering Guide 2012 Edition

Recommended Route(s)

 There is a place close to Vernon, that many don't know about called Ellison Provincial Park. For those climbers out there, Ellison is home to some awesome Granite Bluffs looking over Okanagan Lake that offer up some incredible climbing, even if the pickings are few. It might even remind you of climbing at Squamish, the granite is that good. There are beaches, camping and great mountain biking nearby (sick bouldering too!) Today I am going to highlight two awesome climbs that rank amongst some of the better trad routes in Vernon (in my humble opinion). Try them out!

WHODUNNIT 5.8 - 23M - GEAR TO 3" ***
Arguably the best moderate trad/crack climb in the Vernon area. Start by scrambling up some blocks to a funky step to establish you into the two cracks/corner. Stem, smear and jam straight up until the crack moves left. Undercling and layback (read: incredible) until you are forced to finish up a cool little dihedral with sinker finger jams and great gear. The positions and exposure over the lake are unbeatable. Bring some long slings and I suggest top belaying (better for photos anyway) to save the gear and there is a big seat anyways!!

FROGGER/BUTLER (variation) 5.10+ - 23m - GEAR TO 2" ***
A classic link up that serves up some tricky ass slabby climbing and a big steep roof. Climb 'Frogger' as outlined in the Ellison guide but instead of finishing up at it's anchors step right just above the last (only) bolt and move into the steep roof crack of 'Butler'. From the start, the first 20 feet or so starts with a beautiful layback that quickly switches into a desperate seam/layback and a committing section (read: stich it up before moving on) where your only relief is a crimpy rail and a finicky piece of gear. Move on from here carefully to a bolt. Once past the bolt traverse out right (good feet, no pro) until you hit the main corner. Pull up and into the overhanging crack/corner, sort out the sequence and pull the last roof (bolt). There are four distinct cruxes on this one and the climbing is varied and sequence-y. Pretty much the best variation (in my opinion) on this part of the cliff that offers up a link to the more aesthetic (harder) moves of both routes. Give it a burn, lots of good gear and two bolts. Committing!!!!

Check out the Ellison Guide on this web/blog for more information!!
Link: ELLISON Rock Guide 2012

New Skaha Guidebook

One of my first climbing road trip experiences was at Skaha Bluffs in Penticton, B.C. One of the best and most popular spring and fall road trip destinations in Western Canada, Skaha has become a lure for most climbers with its dry temps and unbelievable climbing. Since the last copy in 2003, the bluffs have been a scene of much development. There are definitely some new classics highlighted in this guide as well as many new routes and areas. The colour and the ease of use is terrific and I was super excited to grab the book and get out to explore and climb some routes I never knew of. Having spent more than 50 days at least at Skaha I will say that this book is a great asset to this already epic climbing area. Let the season begin!!

Three Valley Gap/Eagle Pass/Enderby Ice Climbing Maps

I have put together a few new hand drawn maps for the Three Valley Gap & Enderby area ice climbing. These drawings are not really to scale but they give a good overview of the area(s). I am putting together a final copy of these with route descriptions and approaches in the next little while of which I will include here soon!

Everything has become nice and frozen during the last few weeks, this would be the time to get out before the temps climb back up.

Enjoy and happy climbing!!!

Just click on them, save then print!
Three Valley Gap & Eagle Pass:

Enderby:

THE GORGE - Backcountry Skiing

The quiet place that offers amazing backcountry ski terrain, the Gorge, as many call it, attracts many backcountry skiers and outdoor enthusiasts alike. We are lucky enough every couple of years that the road gets maintained for logging/forestry up and down the valley. This allows cheap ski bums like myself a chance to drive my car up the road and get a taste of the sick ski terrain! Sure if you have a sled you can work you way up there anywhere you want. But for these few weeks this year that the road is open, its good to take full advantage of the short drive from the Okanagan or Revy and go shred it up.

And there is lots of terrain; North & East facing alpine bowls, steep glades (and mellow ones too), drops, steep chutes, and fine views of the surrounding valleys.  Included here (printable version) is just a small map that should help you get into the valley and explore. KM 15 and 18 are popular starting points (with nice parking pullouts) that will allow you straight forward approaches into a wealth of skiing. Get out and adventure while you can. The logging (as of December 9th, 2011) has basically stopped deep in the valley, so until the next big snowfall you should be able to still get in there. Bring chains, a saw, a multi frequency radio and good tires and you should be good to go. Have fun out there!!!