Revelstoke's Victor Lake Wall

The Victor Lake Wall offers some unreal climbing in a unbelievable setting, located just outside Revelstoke, if you are climbing in the 10c to the 11d range with the occasional gear placement this is the place for you! Good quality quartzite multipitch climbing over steep ground with lots of aesthetic moves is the idea here. Included here is a link to the awesome Revelstoke Rock Climbing webpage that gives you the complete lowdown on the climbing here along with many other areas in the Revy region. Some awesome south facing long routes are awaiting those seeking some adventure!!

Link: Victor Lake Wall

Cougar Canyon Bouldering Guide 2012

 After lots of work, photo taking, trail maintenance, brushing, tree chopping, rock moving, and sending; Cougar Canyon's Bouldering has taken off. Can you believe I saw over 15 people Bouldering down there the other weekend. Trails are getting defined, there are shouts of beta echoing around the canyon, there is chalk evidence all over the classics, and people have finally realized one main thing; the climbing is good down here!!!

Partly due to this high amount of traffic and the many new problems, I have put together one final 'new' high quality guidebook for the Bouldering in Cougar Canyon (3rd edition) but where this guide differs from the others is the detail. Color photos, lots of area information, more detailed directions/beta and some fun route icons are just a few of the new features. The guide will be available through True Outdoors (old Valhalla) locations in the Okanagan Valley (high quality prints) and for free download here on this webblog. Get out there and enjoy all that Cougar Canyon has to offer and have a great summer!!!
 A.

Guide: Cougar Bouldering Guide 2012 Edition

Recommended Route(s)

 There is a place close to Vernon, that many don't know about called Ellison Provincial Park. For those climbers out there, Ellison is home to some awesome Granite Bluffs looking over Okanagan Lake that offer up some incredible climbing, even if the pickings are few. It might even remind you of climbing at Squamish, the granite is that good. There are beaches, camping and great mountain biking nearby (sick bouldering too!) Today I am going to highlight two awesome climbs that rank amongst some of the better trad routes in Vernon (in my humble opinion). Try them out!

WHODUNNIT 5.8 - 23M - GEAR TO 3" ***
Arguably the best moderate trad/crack climb in the Vernon area. Start by scrambling up some blocks to a funky step to establish you into the two cracks/corner. Stem, smear and jam straight up until the crack moves left. Undercling and layback (read: incredible) until you are forced to finish up a cool little dihedral with sinker finger jams and great gear. The positions and exposure over the lake are unbeatable. Bring some long slings and I suggest top belaying (better for photos anyway) to save the gear and there is a big seat anyways!!

FROGGER/BUTLER (variation) 5.10+ - 23m - GEAR TO 2" ***
A classic link up that serves up some tricky ass slabby climbing and a big steep roof. Climb 'Frogger' as outlined in the Ellison guide but instead of finishing up at it's anchors step right just above the last (only) bolt and move into the steep roof crack of 'Butler'. From the start, the first 20 feet or so starts with a beautiful layback that quickly switches into a desperate seam/layback and a committing section (read: stich it up before moving on) where your only relief is a crimpy rail and a finicky piece of gear. Move on from here carefully to a bolt. Once past the bolt traverse out right (good feet, no pro) until you hit the main corner. Pull up and into the overhanging crack/corner, sort out the sequence and pull the last roof (bolt). There are four distinct cruxes on this one and the climbing is varied and sequence-y. Pretty much the best variation (in my opinion) on this part of the cliff that offers up a link to the more aesthetic (harder) moves of both routes. Give it a burn, lots of good gear and two bolts. Committing!!!!

Check out the Ellison Guide on this web/blog for more information!!
Link: ELLISON Rock Guide 2012

New Skaha Guidebook

One of my first climbing road trip experiences was at Skaha Bluffs in Penticton, B.C. One of the best and most popular spring and fall road trip destinations in Western Canada, Skaha has become a lure for most climbers with its dry temps and unbelievable climbing. Since the last copy in 2003, the bluffs have been a scene of much development. There are definitely some new classics highlighted in this guide as well as many new routes and areas. The colour and the ease of use is terrific and I was super excited to grab the book and get out to explore and climb some routes I never knew of. Having spent more than 50 days at least at Skaha I will say that this book is a great asset to this already epic climbing area. Let the season begin!!

Three Valley Gap/Eagle Pass/Enderby Ice Climbing Maps

I have put together a few new hand drawn maps for the Three Valley Gap & Enderby area ice climbing. These drawings are not really to scale but they give a good overview of the area(s). I am putting together a final copy of these with route descriptions and approaches in the next little while of which I will include here soon!

Everything has become nice and frozen during the last few weeks, this would be the time to get out before the temps climb back up.

Enjoy and happy climbing!!!

Just click on them, save then print!
Three Valley Gap & Eagle Pass:

Enderby:

THE GORGE - Backcountry Skiing

The quiet place that offers amazing backcountry ski terrain, the Gorge, as many call it, attracts many backcountry skiers and outdoor enthusiasts alike. We are lucky enough every couple of years that the road gets maintained for logging/forestry up and down the valley. This allows cheap ski bums like myself a chance to drive my car up the road and get a taste of the sick ski terrain! Sure if you have a sled you can work you way up there anywhere you want. But for these few weeks this year that the road is open, its good to take full advantage of the short drive from the Okanagan or Revy and go shred it up.

And there is lots of terrain; North & East facing alpine bowls, steep glades (and mellow ones too), drops, steep chutes, and fine views of the surrounding valleys.  Included here (printable version) is just a small map that should help you get into the valley and explore. KM 15 and 18 are popular starting points (with nice parking pullouts) that will allow you straight forward approaches into a wealth of skiing. Get out and adventure while you can. The logging (as of December 9th, 2011) has basically stopped deep in the valley, so until the next big snowfall you should be able to still get in there. Bring chains, a saw, a multi frequency radio and good tires and you should be good to go. Have fun out there!!!

Great Online Sources

Listed here are a few great online sources for climbing, skiing and backcountry information. Recently, as of this November, the Avalanche Bulletins in western Canada have been given a facelift. Due to some really hard work and research, there has been a new format for which the bulletin's are being posted. Good illustrations and thorough information make these bulletins really easy to use and a great asset to planning any outdoor pursuits in avy country. These bulletins are available via Parks Canada and Avalanche.ca.

Parks Canada & B.C Avy Bulletins: Western Canada Avalanche

Another cool little web source I found was an online guide to the classic Waterfall Ice Climbs in the Canadian Rockies. As many know, the famed guidebook is now out of print (?) and coming by one is next to impossible (without some kind of bribe to a buddy). The online guide gives some great info to many of the classic climbs listed in the guidebook.

Waterfall Ice In The Rockies: Select Guidebook

And one last source that I have been using for years has been getting spruced up. The Grav Sports Ice Conditions page, started by Will Gadd and friend(s) has really become a huge source of information. If its new routes your looking for, beta on approaches or just a partner, just send out a message. The ice community in the Rockies is super friendly and always willing to share with others.

Grav-Sports Ice: Conditions

Have fun out there!
Allen

Climb Smarter & Safer

As ice climbing season approaches we are all ancy to get out and play. Early season routes are now coming in and the ice season (in the canadian rockies anyway) has begun. Ice climbing is a dangerous sport, but fun none the less. Over the years I have taken lots of pointers from partners and such that have really helped me progress in becoming a better and safer climber. Over the next little while I will be posting some of my own tips as well as some more from Climbing magazine (cause I think they do a real good job with awesome illustrations) Hope these help, feel free to comment...

USE YOUR HEAD AND YOUR FEET.......

By David Roetzel
Illustration by Mike Clelland

Regardless of how much better ice-climbing equipment gets — better tools, easier-to-place screws, heel spurs, or better clothing — ice climbing has a different learning curve than rock, and, in general, it’s best not to fall off. Trial, error, and experience are the keys to improvement. Here are a few tips to help you along the curve.
Tip your lid, you’ll be glad you did. Dodging dinner plates of ice is a dangerous part of ice climbing. Like any dodge game, you’re bound to take some hits, but where you take your lumps is the real concern. Use your helmet for what it was designed for — taking impacts. To be combat ready, your helmet’s front brim should be positioned just above your eyebrows and securely positioned on your head.
Always be alert for the sights and sounds of ice breaking loose — these are your best warnings that you’re about to contend with falling ice. Next time you’re swinging and a piece of ice comes loose, tilt your head down and slightly towards the arm that’s swinging. If done properly, the brim of your helmet should end up just lower than your eye’s horizontal plane. This is a subtle movement — tip your head too far forward and you expose your cervical spine; tip it too little and the ice might hit your face. Looking up with your eyes while maintaining the tipped-brim position allows you to see, and keeps you protected.
Perpendicular and flat make crampon placements fat. Unlike in rock climbing where we often stand on our tip-toes, sound crampon placements result from keeping your feet flat so your crampons remain horizontal. Standing on your toes brings your heels up, forcing your front points down, possibly causing them to sheer. To avoid the whip, keep your heels level with, or, lower than, your front points. This angle of attack provides the most secure crampon placement, and brings your secondary points closer to the ice.
This is obvious when you’re kicking straight in front of you, but what happens when you need to kick out to either side? More often than not, kicking to the side leaves your inside points touching and the outside points barely contacting ice. To counter this, move your heel away from your body by rotating the top of your leg inside your hip’s ball-and-socket joint. Your foot and front points should now be perpendicular to the ice. As you kick, remember to keep your toes up and your heel low, allowing both the front points and the secondary points to hit the ice.
Kicking with a stiffy to clear a bulge. Clearing an ice bulge can be difficult. Kicking in the typical manner (where your knee joint acts as a hinge) almost always leaves your front points pointing downwards, not straight in. Rather than using your knee like a hinge, gently lock it, lift the front of your crampons up and swing your leg from the hip. Ideally, your knee remains stiff throughout the motion, keeping your toes higher than your heels, which helps engage your front and secondary points at the moment of impact.

Recommended Route

Seeing on how it is now officially ice climbing season (not for all of us but close) I figured this would be a good time to start changing it up a little.

When I used to live in Banff, there was this amazing little route that was a few minutes drive from my house with a quick approach that was a great way to spend an afternoon (or morning). I never saw anyone else out there, I usually set the hiking track, and the ice was always so good. Maybe it wasn't this big pumpy grade 5 multi pitch but, with 25m of beautiful blue ice you could set an anchor and do as many laps as you wanted. Also, a very good place to get someone into the sport; comfortable. As far as I know this climb is only threatened by avalanche during big cycles (ie: high hazard, lots of storm snow) as it is located almost at the bottom of a drainage/creek. It is usually formed up by December and it just gets fatter as the season progresses. By March the sun starts to hit it more and the ice usually deteriorates, but from my experience it is pretty dependable every season by the start of December. A good Christmas climb???!!!

STEP RIGHT UP
WI3 - 25M
Approach: Turn onto Highway 1A (Bow Valley Parkway) from Banff (10mins) and drive about 1.5km to a small interpretive pull-out (reference). Drive down another 150/200m or so until you hit a small stream that crosses the road (sparse trees). Pull-over, park here and head up the gully/creek for 1km to the route. At first the trail is in the woods and as you get further up you will notice the creek (icy under your feet). Eventually the creek will get steeper and more frozen (sometimes crampons will be needed here) to where it will become a small canyon where a big log jam will need to be passed. The falls should be visible from here.

Climb: Climb a little Wi1 to a beautiful curtain with lots of variations (the middle usually being the steepest. Rappel off V-Thread. Going exploring up the canyon is kinda fun too!

Recommended Route(s)

Just back from an excellent road trip to the U.S.A I discovered these fantastic climbs called 'Towering Inferno' and 'Looney Binge' at the Owen's River Gorge.  Both climbs are located at the Eldorado Roof area in the Inner Gorge. One route climbs up the roof and the other traverses the lip of it.

At first glance you don't know what to think of the Gorge (sure Im not the first), big power lines, and choss. But then as you enter the canyons you realize the vast amount of climbing here. From the first route we climbed I was pretty satisfied. Climb any route in Marty Lewis' guide 4 stars or more (lots...) and I guarantee you wont be disappointed. Here I will just outline a couple of climbs that really stood out for me, and that should not be missed!

TOWERING INFERNO

5.11A - 42M - 15 Bolts - SPORT

Start on the far right end of the Eldorodo Roof in a quaint little belay spot underneath a big left facing corner/dihedral. Climb 4 bolts of stemming and crack climbing to the start of the traverse (crux). From here traverse left past many bolts across the face with great pleasure. A 70m rope will touch down when lowering off into the river, or continue on 4 more pitches of mid 5.11.

LOONEY BINGE

5.12C - 70M Rope - 18 Bolts - SPORT

Starts more towards the left side of the roof. Begin by climbing a steep bulge to an undercling (tricky) then into a funky dihedral. From here the fun begins, follow the crazy overhanging flake system (see photo) passing many bolts and trying to fight the pump until you hit the final vertical headwall. Take a rest and finish by climbing the face trending right to the anchors of the first pitch of 'Towering Inferno'. Likely one of the best roofs you'll ever climb!