Three Valley Gap/Eagle Pass/Enderby Ice Climbing Maps

I have put together a few new hand drawn maps for the Three Valley Gap & Enderby area ice climbing. These drawings are not really to scale but they give a good overview of the area(s). I am putting together a final copy of these with route descriptions and approaches in the next little while of which I will include here soon!

Everything has become nice and frozen during the last few weeks, this would be the time to get out before the temps climb back up.

Enjoy and happy climbing!!!

Just click on them, save then print!
Three Valley Gap & Eagle Pass:

Enderby:

THE GORGE - Backcountry Skiing

The quiet place that offers amazing backcountry ski terrain, the Gorge, as many call it, attracts many backcountry skiers and outdoor enthusiasts alike. We are lucky enough every couple of years that the road gets maintained for logging/forestry up and down the valley. This allows cheap ski bums like myself a chance to drive my car up the road and get a taste of the sick ski terrain! Sure if you have a sled you can work you way up there anywhere you want. But for these few weeks this year that the road is open, its good to take full advantage of the short drive from the Okanagan or Revy and go shred it up.

And there is lots of terrain; North & East facing alpine bowls, steep glades (and mellow ones too), drops, steep chutes, and fine views of the surrounding valleys.  Included here (printable version) is just a small map that should help you get into the valley and explore. KM 15 and 18 are popular starting points (with nice parking pullouts) that will allow you straight forward approaches into a wealth of skiing. Get out and adventure while you can. The logging (as of December 9th, 2011) has basically stopped deep in the valley, so until the next big snowfall you should be able to still get in there. Bring chains, a saw, a multi frequency radio and good tires and you should be good to go. Have fun out there!!!

Great Online Sources

Listed here are a few great online sources for climbing, skiing and backcountry information. Recently, as of this November, the Avalanche Bulletins in western Canada have been given a facelift. Due to some really hard work and research, there has been a new format for which the bulletin's are being posted. Good illustrations and thorough information make these bulletins really easy to use and a great asset to planning any outdoor pursuits in avy country. These bulletins are available via Parks Canada and Avalanche.ca.

Parks Canada & B.C Avy Bulletins: Western Canada Avalanche

Another cool little web source I found was an online guide to the classic Waterfall Ice Climbs in the Canadian Rockies. As many know, the famed guidebook is now out of print (?) and coming by one is next to impossible (without some kind of bribe to a buddy). The online guide gives some great info to many of the classic climbs listed in the guidebook.

Waterfall Ice In The Rockies: Select Guidebook

And one last source that I have been using for years has been getting spruced up. The Grav Sports Ice Conditions page, started by Will Gadd and friend(s) has really become a huge source of information. If its new routes your looking for, beta on approaches or just a partner, just send out a message. The ice community in the Rockies is super friendly and always willing to share with others.

Grav-Sports Ice: Conditions

Have fun out there!
Allen

Climb Smarter & Safer

As ice climbing season approaches we are all ancy to get out and play. Early season routes are now coming in and the ice season (in the canadian rockies anyway) has begun. Ice climbing is a dangerous sport, but fun none the less. Over the years I have taken lots of pointers from partners and such that have really helped me progress in becoming a better and safer climber. Over the next little while I will be posting some of my own tips as well as some more from Climbing magazine (cause I think they do a real good job with awesome illustrations) Hope these help, feel free to comment...

USE YOUR HEAD AND YOUR FEET.......

By David Roetzel
Illustration by Mike Clelland

Regardless of how much better ice-climbing equipment gets — better tools, easier-to-place screws, heel spurs, or better clothing — ice climbing has a different learning curve than rock, and, in general, it’s best not to fall off. Trial, error, and experience are the keys to improvement. Here are a few tips to help you along the curve.
Tip your lid, you’ll be glad you did. Dodging dinner plates of ice is a dangerous part of ice climbing. Like any dodge game, you’re bound to take some hits, but where you take your lumps is the real concern. Use your helmet for what it was designed for — taking impacts. To be combat ready, your helmet’s front brim should be positioned just above your eyebrows and securely positioned on your head.
Always be alert for the sights and sounds of ice breaking loose — these are your best warnings that you’re about to contend with falling ice. Next time you’re swinging and a piece of ice comes loose, tilt your head down and slightly towards the arm that’s swinging. If done properly, the brim of your helmet should end up just lower than your eye’s horizontal plane. This is a subtle movement — tip your head too far forward and you expose your cervical spine; tip it too little and the ice might hit your face. Looking up with your eyes while maintaining the tipped-brim position allows you to see, and keeps you protected.
Perpendicular and flat make crampon placements fat. Unlike in rock climbing where we often stand on our tip-toes, sound crampon placements result from keeping your feet flat so your crampons remain horizontal. Standing on your toes brings your heels up, forcing your front points down, possibly causing them to sheer. To avoid the whip, keep your heels level with, or, lower than, your front points. This angle of attack provides the most secure crampon placement, and brings your secondary points closer to the ice.
This is obvious when you’re kicking straight in front of you, but what happens when you need to kick out to either side? More often than not, kicking to the side leaves your inside points touching and the outside points barely contacting ice. To counter this, move your heel away from your body by rotating the top of your leg inside your hip’s ball-and-socket joint. Your foot and front points should now be perpendicular to the ice. As you kick, remember to keep your toes up and your heel low, allowing both the front points and the secondary points to hit the ice.
Kicking with a stiffy to clear a bulge. Clearing an ice bulge can be difficult. Kicking in the typical manner (where your knee joint acts as a hinge) almost always leaves your front points pointing downwards, not straight in. Rather than using your knee like a hinge, gently lock it, lift the front of your crampons up and swing your leg from the hip. Ideally, your knee remains stiff throughout the motion, keeping your toes higher than your heels, which helps engage your front and secondary points at the moment of impact.

Recommended Route

Seeing on how it is now officially ice climbing season (not for all of us but close) I figured this would be a good time to start changing it up a little.

When I used to live in Banff, there was this amazing little route that was a few minutes drive from my house with a quick approach that was a great way to spend an afternoon (or morning). I never saw anyone else out there, I usually set the hiking track, and the ice was always so good. Maybe it wasn't this big pumpy grade 5 multi pitch but, with 25m of beautiful blue ice you could set an anchor and do as many laps as you wanted. Also, a very good place to get someone into the sport; comfortable. As far as I know this climb is only threatened by avalanche during big cycles (ie: high hazard, lots of storm snow) as it is located almost at the bottom of a drainage/creek. It is usually formed up by December and it just gets fatter as the season progresses. By March the sun starts to hit it more and the ice usually deteriorates, but from my experience it is pretty dependable every season by the start of December. A good Christmas climb???!!!

STEP RIGHT UP
WI3 - 25M
Approach: Turn onto Highway 1A (Bow Valley Parkway) from Banff (10mins) and drive about 1.5km to a small interpretive pull-out (reference). Drive down another 150/200m or so until you hit a small stream that crosses the road (sparse trees). Pull-over, park here and head up the gully/creek for 1km to the route. At first the trail is in the woods and as you get further up you will notice the creek (icy under your feet). Eventually the creek will get steeper and more frozen (sometimes crampons will be needed here) to where it will become a small canyon where a big log jam will need to be passed. The falls should be visible from here.

Climb: Climb a little Wi1 to a beautiful curtain with lots of variations (the middle usually being the steepest. Rappel off V-Thread. Going exploring up the canyon is kinda fun too!

Recommended Route(s)

Just back from an excellent road trip to the U.S.A I discovered these fantastic climbs called 'Towering Inferno' and 'Looney Binge' at the Owen's River Gorge.  Both climbs are located at the Eldorado Roof area in the Inner Gorge. One route climbs up the roof and the other traverses the lip of it.

At first glance you don't know what to think of the Gorge (sure Im not the first), big power lines, and choss. But then as you enter the canyons you realize the vast amount of climbing here. From the first route we climbed I was pretty satisfied. Climb any route in Marty Lewis' guide 4 stars or more (lots...) and I guarantee you wont be disappointed. Here I will just outline a couple of climbs that really stood out for me, and that should not be missed!

TOWERING INFERNO

5.11A - 42M - 15 Bolts - SPORT

Start on the far right end of the Eldorodo Roof in a quaint little belay spot underneath a big left facing corner/dihedral. Climb 4 bolts of stemming and crack climbing to the start of the traverse (crux). From here traverse left past many bolts across the face with great pleasure. A 70m rope will touch down when lowering off into the river, or continue on 4 more pitches of mid 5.11.

LOONEY BINGE

5.12C - 70M Rope - 18 Bolts - SPORT

Starts more towards the left side of the roof. Begin by climbing a steep bulge to an undercling (tricky) then into a funky dihedral. From here the fun begins, follow the crazy overhanging flake system (see photo) passing many bolts and trying to fight the pump until you hit the final vertical headwall. Take a rest and finish by climbing the face trending right to the anchors of the first pitch of 'Towering Inferno'. Likely one of the best roofs you'll ever climb!

Frenchman Coulee Basalt Rock Climbing

An excellent destination for the fall, Frenchman Coulee near Vantage, Washington has a great variety of Volcanic Basalt climbing.  From big splitter cracks to fun steep sport climbs, the Coulee has a little something for everyone, side by side. It is easy to climb a dozen routes on one little section of cliff. During summer it tends to be a bit hot (100) here mid-summer so the spring and fall are ideal! If you are living in B.C and you are looking to escape the fall rain and head south but you dont have the time, this is the spot! Located in the rain shadow of the Coast Mountains, the Coulee is a very diverse desert and receives much less rain than some of the other Washington state climbing areas. Most of the walls are south facing and on the right day you can climb here right into November. Bring your mountain bike as well, there are lots of fun little trails all around the Echo Basin. ENJOY

Included here is a Select Guide of the area that coincides well with 'Frenchman Coulee' by Marlene Ford & Jim Yoder.

Vantage Topo: Frenchman Coulee Guide

REVELSTOKE Rock Climbing Webpage

For all your Revelstoke climbing needs.
Basically everything the guidebook offers and more. Lots of updates and lots of great info.
It's amazing the development that has happened here in last few years! Most recently Cranberry Cliffs/Boulders, and the big Victor Lake Wall the past two summers. Get out there!!!

The Page: http://www.revelstokerockclimbing.com/index.html


Link to Victor Lake Wall: New Routes
Cranberry Walls: New Crag/Routes

Climb Smarter & Safer

This will be a new addition to the page. I have been seeing and reading about lots of accidents lately. As well as learning a lot of new things/tricks that I never knew. So...... this will be a chance for some readers/climbers to learn something new about Climbing Smarter & Safer.  In climbing everyone has their opinion and their own ways of doing things, super safe or not, this is just mine and that of some others that I would like to share. Enjoy

The first one will be about cleaning anchors and belaying from anchors. I have seen many a sport climber use a single quickdraw for safety at a rappel anchor. Anything can happen out there and why not take a little extra time at least have a locked system between you and the ground. This next article is from climbing magazine!!!

Tech Tips: Anchors Away

By Lee Lang / Illustrations by Jamie Givens

Using personal anchor tethers safely

Traditionally, climbers have anchored to the belay by tying in directly with the rope. Now, many prefer the convenience of personal anchor tethers specifically designed for this purpose for belays, as well as for cleaning the top anchor on a sport climb or anchoring during multi-pitch rappels. When used properly, these systems can be safe and strong, but when used improperly, they can lead to fatal accidents.

A 2007 incident on the Grand Capucin near Chamonix, France, exemplifies the danger: A climber fell less than two feet onto the Dyneema sling attaching him to his anchor; the resulting impact broke the anchor sling, and the climber fell to his death. Ledges break, climbers slip—and the result can be dynamic loading of an anchor.

All climbing cord and webbing was once made from nylon, which stretches slightly, absorbing energy. Stronger materials such as Spectra and Dyneema now allow climbers to save weight, but lack the ability to absorb energy through stretch. When used in systems with an energyabsorbing component—such as in quickdraws, where the dynamic rope clipped to the draws absorbs energy—these materials excel. When they’re used in a system with no energy-absorbing component, any dynamic event results in extremely high impact forces.

Drop tests demonstrate the danger. DMM tested an assorted batch of Dyneema and nylon slings, using a 176-pound weight in fall-factor 1 (120cm drop on 120cm sling) and fall-factor 2 (240cm drop on 120cm sling) scenarios (www.dmmclimbing.com/video.asp?id=5). Even when the Dyneema slings did not fail, the impact force (18–22+ kN) delivered to the climber likely would have resulted in massive or fatal injury.

Rigging for Rescue also tested a variety of personal lanyards and anchors, using 176-pound and 220-pound loads (riggingforrescue.com/relanyards1.html). Spectra daisy chains began to fail at a fall factor of 0.25: a 220-pound weight dropped nine inches on a 36-inch daisy chain. At a fall factor of 0.5 (18-inch drop on a 36-inch daisy), virtually every daisy chain failed.

Consider the personal anchor systems that climbers are using today:

DAISY CHAINS

These are aid climbers’ tools, used to link one’s harness to aiders or ascenders, but they’re commonly and improperly used as personal anchor tethers. Daisy chains should not be used as anchoring systems, for two important reasons. First, the best-case scenario for a climber dynamically loading a daisy chain is a perilously harsh impact that could break the daisy, rip the anchor, or injure the climber. Second, it is extremely easy to clip a daisy chain in such a way that you are clipped through loops that only are designed to hold body weight. Watch the Black Diamond video illustrating these points atclimbing.com/print/techtips.

ANCHOR TETHERS

Specially designed tethers—such as the Metolius PAS, Blue Water Titan, and Sterling Chain Reactor—overcome a key weakness with daisy chains: the potential for improper clipping through loops. Still, most are made partly with Spectra or Dyneema (the Chain Reactor is 100 percent nylon), and none is intended to absorb much energy or withstand dynamic loading. During Rigging For Rescue’s drop tests, the PAS withstood a factor-1 fall with a 220-pound weight, but the resulting impact force was 19 kN. The potential for a factor-1 fall occurs when your waist is at the same height as the anchor and the system is completely slack.

If you use an anchor system, be aware of the risks and how to minimize them. Except for daisy chains, which were never designed to be used as personal anchors, tethers are safe, but only if they are never placed in a situation where dynamic loads could occur—the kind of load that could happen in the illustration at left. Keep the attachment weighted at all times! Even a short fall onto an anchor tether, especially if it is made of Spectra or Dyneema, can generate huge forces.

Music!

Click on this link and it will bring you to this awesome music site called SOUNDCLOUD.
The band is called THE KICKDRUMS, they are from Manhattan and they are a blend of indie, rock and hip hop. Very original and I am sure you will like them! The link will let you listen to their new album as many times as you want, you just cant download it. ENJOY!

Link: The Kickdrums On SoundCLOUD Music