JUST TO GET YOU PSYCHED!

A Couple of Shots That Are Getting Me Psyched for the Ice And Snow!

ICE CLIMBING IN THE OTTAWA VALLEY!

Keeping us climbers at bay during the winter can prove to be hard for some. Many go on big roadtrips, some resort to the plastic and others somehow get a kick out of climbing frozen waterfalls.
Although the routes might not be as huge as in the Rockies, Ontario and Quebec definitley have their share of Ice Routes. With a few good weeks of good solid cold each season there seems to be enough around to keep everyone busy.

Although there are many more routes than listed here, these two guides should get you out on some of the consistent(good) climbs in the Ottawa Valley near Gatineau, Calabogie, Madawaska and some of the surrounding areas.

Not included in these guides but well worth getting to are:
Bancroft/Eagles's Nest
Schooner Lake
Bon Echo
Brule Lake
Diamond Lake

Here is a GREAT link to some downloadable guidebooks and some great information on Ontario Ice Climbing:
ONTARIO ICE CLIMBING PAGE

They are all within a few hours drive of Ottawa and I will try to collect the information I have and make it into a printable document within a few weeks.

Along with the Quebec section (look for it on the webpage), hopefully, there is enough information to sort you out. Enjoy the up and coming winter season!!

Ottawa/Gatineau Ice:
Ottawa Valley Area Ice Guide
More Ottawa Ice Climbing


Madawaska Area Ice:
Madawaska Area Ice Guide

MUSIC!

Heavy Metal is one of many forms of music that can get you pumped. Here is an installment of a few bands that I think are truly awesome. ENJOY!

3 Inches Of Blood:
Rejoice In The Fire Of Mans
Forest King

Dragon Force:
Valley of the Damned

Fall Road Trip To Ontario!

I dont ususally post many of my personal missions on here but this time I guess it's an exception.
Off to Ontario in my friends 4runner for a few weeks to visit family and climb in north-western Ontario.
I keep hearing about all these routes being put up over the last few years, and it has me psyched. Sweet granite cracks overlooking lakes in a very unique wilderness environment. We plan for the Kenora area to a place called Gooseneck Rocks then off to Thunder Bay to the Sleeping Giant? And maybe even some Bon Echo once at home and finally some Luskville in Gatineau. Oh ya did I mention lots of wine and turkey! Still up in the air but the weather is looking good for some colourful fall climbing. Hope everyone had a sick year on the rock and look forward to seeing you all on the ice. I'll include a couple of sweet photos of the northern Ontario climbing/area..................

ALLEN

Music!

I recently discovered this band that blends horns, soul, jazz and funk to make a really incredible sound. They are from Staten Island, New York and I guarantee their music will get your head bobbing. Here's a track!

Song: Chicago Falcon - The Budos Band

Echo Canyon - New Canmore Rock Climbing Destination

A few years ago I found a topo for a crag called the Hideaway located between Cougar Canyon and Bataan on Grotto Mountain. If you have ever been to Bataan or taken a look at Grotto from Canmore, you can see a big "grotto" (cave like canyon running the height of almost the whole mountain) on the left face of the mountain. This is Echo Canyon. There is now a ton of climbing up there, tons of walls and 3 big multi-pitch classics. This is THE place to go if you are climbing between 5.11 & 5.13. Bring a 70m rope, lots of draws, a helmet for the long routes and good sense of adventure (little more adventurous than your average sport routes) and you will be awarded with a great experience. Thanks to the guys and gals for all the effort put into this place!

The approach is a wonderful (albeit uphill) hike first up through the trees from the Alpine Club of Canada's Clubhouse then up a scenic narrow canyon with a bit of scrambling. After about an hour the canyon opens up into the big ampitheatre where endless rock awaits you. The Hideaway is the first crag you come to on the left, then after another 10-15 minutes you will run into the 'Prospect' on your left as well. Finally after a little while longer you will end up at the 'Coliseum' and 'Tall Storey'. The Lookout is located on the other side of the canyon and offers steep jug hauls in a great setting. It takes a little to find the crags your first time, but don't worry, the hike is fun and an awesome atmosphere awaits you.

Over the past year or so it has started to become a favoured place to go for local Canmore sport climbers. Instant classics everywhere, steep, asthetic routes on great limestone in a beautiful place! Get out and enjoy these routes, I guarantee once you visit you will keep going back! The pictures your enjoying are from/of Derek Galloway and Gery Unterasinger, local hard climbers from Canmore.

Buy the BOW VALLEY ROCK guidebook by Derek Galloway, for the full info on this sick area!
Included here is a few topos of the great multi-pitch and some updates.

Downloads/Topos:
Tall Storey 11c - 185m - 8 Pitches - Topo
Prospect 10c - 100m - 4 Pitches- Topo
Hideaway Topo + Others In Canmore Area
SUNSET CRAG - New crag in Echo Canyon

PLaNeT X - Canmore, Alberta - Limestone Sport Climbing

It really doesnt get any better than the Canmore area's Planet X. Actually pronounced '10' like the roman numeral, this place hosts high quality featured blue/grey limestone of a overhanging nature. If long (almost 40m), steep, physical, asthetic sport climbing is for you then you cant miss this crag. Located high up the Cougar Canyon drainage behind Grotto Mountain, Planet X is in a beautiful, remote location that gives an awesome vibe while climbing there. The cliff gets almost no sun, so the warm summer months would be ideal. You need a 70m (atleast) for all the routes, lots of draws and some strong arms. The warm up's are 5.11's, similar to Acephale. Thanks to Derek Galloway for the topo and information.

Topo: Planet X - Rock Climbing Topo

Mt.Slesse - Cascade's Alpine Classic - NorthEast Buttress

Although the season has taken a turn for the cold here in B.C I was still keen to include a couple of sweet detailed maps of Slesse's Northeast Buttress. I personally love having folded up topos in my back pocket when climbing long routes, no bulky guidebook but just a little cheat sheet if you may. A well deserved classic, Slesse is a beautiful mountain in a beautiful place.

Included is a detailed route topo, the new Crossover pass descent, which has been really developed and is being used a lot now (and did I mention it brings you back to your car), a road map of the area/approach, and a photo of the route from the hiking trail, and then some photos to get you psyched! All easily printable.

Route Topo: Route Topo - Northeast Buttress
Crossover Pass Descent: Descent Topo

SULLY's HaNGOuT - North Shore, Vancouver Rock Climbing

Sully's Hangout is a super cool crag located just off the trans-canada highway in North Vanvouver on the lower slopes of Lynn Peak. The crag is nestled underneath a big canopy of fir trees that give a very pleasant atmosphere and is a great place to hang out. Expect well-bolted climbing with difficult technical cruxes mostly in the 5.11 range, but with lots of good lower end stuff as well. A really good place on a sunny summer day to escape the heat.

Access is a bit of an issue here so please read up carefully on the topo and try to do your best to keep the climbing alive here. Enjoy!

Sully's Hangout - Topo

Ontario Rock Climbing & Bouldering

Leslie Timms climbing at Lion's Head overlooking Georgian Bay

Being from Ontario, I only started climbing there the last year and a half I lived there. I didnt get the chance to visit many of the areas that I'm going to include here, but they all seem to have something to offer. From the Niagara Glen to Bon Echo to Mt.Nemo, there is enough established here to keep a climber busy for some time. I have collected as many topos as I could to include here and I hope to be able to visit some of these sweet areas in the future. Enjoy the upcoming fall/changing colours climbing season!

Click here for Beaver Valley/Bruce Peninsula:
Excellent database for a lot of good info about climbing in Ontario!

 Bruce Penisula/Lion's Head

Mt.Nemo Rock Climbing - Milton, Ontario
Rock climbing on the Niagara Escarpment close to Toronto

Niagara Glen Bouldering - Niagara Falls, Ontario
THE bouldering spot in southern Ontario, lots of problems!

Rattlesnake Point Rock Climbing - Milton, Ontario
Rock climbing close to Mt.Nemo on the same rock. Close to Toronto and area

Red Rock Cliff - Pembroke/Barry's Bay, Ontario
Excellent climbing in a beautiful area, just near Algonquin Park/Pembroke. The go to crag in the Ottawa Valley

For Bon Echo's guidebook refer to the 'rock climbing' downloads on the this home page. There is one other crag that is problay one of the best in Ontario and it's called The Lion's Head on Georgian Bay on the Bruce Peninsula. You can aquire the guidebook in many outdoor stores across Ontario and it should be a must on any serious rock climbers list. Beautiful climbing right over the lake on awesome limestone! Oh ya and did I mention Thunder Bay???............................