Saturday, February 20, 2010

Prince George, B.C - Rock & Ice Climbing Up North!



The Prince George area in northern B.C is a little off the map for most of us, but for those who might venture that way here are a couple of guidebooks/topos to get you out climbing.


Mt.Pope
The rock climbing is concentrated amongst a few crags, with some really good bouldering near town. If you are willing to go the distance, PG is surrounded by three big mountain ranges; The Rockies, Coast Mountains and The Cariboos. Lots of untouched lines for those willing to seek them out. Included here is the climbing area & bouldering close to town: The Giscome Boulders; which are quite developed and host many good problems, & The Roadside Bluffs; pretty short but sweet, and just above the boudlers,  Also, nearby Mt.Pope is known to have a couple of really good multi-pitch routes. Combined with a few nights camping and some paddling on the nearby Fraser or Holmes Rivers, you could definitley have a fun outdoor adventure here. If you can find 'CENTRAL BC ROCK' by Lyle Knight which is out of print. There is a lot of good info in there about climbing near PG.

As far as the ice climbing is concerned, for people with a sled and a keen sense of adventure, there are limitless possibilities, along with the ACC guide included here that should keep you occupied for a while.
Have fun and enjoy this wonderful area!






Friday, February 12, 2010

Revy Ice Climbing Video!

Me and my climbing bro Pat have been ice climbing a whole lot around Revelstoke. We have been getting on some epic routes that have not seen many ascents. Adventuring around here has been a lot of fun, no real information, just going out and climbing whatever we could find. Although it is getting warmer, the ice season has been exceptionally generous to us. Pat has put together a few raw but great videos with music and such of our adventures. Give them a watch and share the fun we have had this winter, there will be more to come!! LAteR ALLEN

Link to Video: Vimeo Ice Video

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Rock Climbing - INDEX, Washington!


Index is a very popular climbing destination just north east of the big city of Seattle. The walls here have been getting climbed for many years but locals have done a very good job on keeping it a secret. Granite cliffs towering above the little town of Index (pop. 160) have brought climbers from all over to test their mettle against the gnarly big walls full of amazing climbs for many years. Index is just off the Steven Pass Highway 55 miles northeast of Seattle and it hosts great camping, lots of routes and a wonderful atmosphere. This area has a very similar climate to Squamish with the moss filled forests and lots of rain with the driest times coming during the summer months. Leavenworth is just a little drive away and hosts a much drier climate if you get rained out. Bouldering, awesome cracks and vertical faces await, and with this link to a very good guidebook page, you should have enough beta to get out and enjoy this great place. If you need more "Sky Valley Rock" by Darryl Cramer is a more recent full length guidebook. ENJOY!



Monday, February 1, 2010

Escalades Du GLACE Dans Quebec! ICE Climbing In Quebec!


Here is a awesome installment of some Quebec ice climbing topos. The climbing here is amazing, along with hundreds of classic routes, Quebec is also home to one of the biggest ice/mixed festivals in the world called 'Festiglace', just north of Quebec City. With dependable winters, lots of ice and tons of motivated climbers Quebec is a ice climbing destination worth a visit. These topos should be enough to get you started, they cover a little from all over the province and a number of classics! For all those that dont know any french, I apologize, because these are all in French.....

Link: Quebec City Area Ice    Link: Maurice Ice        

Link: Charlevoix Ice

Link: Nipissis River Ice           Link: Gaspe Ice           

Link: Chaudiere-Appalachain Ice

Link: Cote Nord Ice               Link: Bas Saint Laurent Ice




Along with the topos provided here there are some great websites that offer lots of beta, photos and current conditions, just to name a few:
http://escaladequebec.com/
http://grimpesurglace.com/
http://neice.com/
http://fqme.qc.ca/


Saturday, January 30, 2010

More Ice Climbing Around Revelstoke, B.C


Along with the exploring we have been doing latley and a huge wealth of information from a former Revy climber Al, I have constructed another topo addition to the climbing in the Revelstoke area. The potential here is awesome, with  little snow latley, lots of climbs that wouldnt regularly be climbable have been getting traffic! Enjoy the winter!

Link: Revelstoke Ice Mini-Topo

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Ice Climbing East of Revelstoke, B.C



Information on this climbing in a small area called Greeley east of Revy has just been shared with me by a very generous guy that use to live and climb in Revelstoke. Here is a basic idea of some of the good moderate routes in the area, sounds so great! As I climb and adventure here a little more I will add to this mini-topo. Gotta get out on this stuff while its still cold enough. So awesome that people are so willing to share what they know. We could have a real good amount of information about ice climbing for this area by the end of winter to share for years to come! SWEET, ENJOY!

Link: Greeley Ice Mini-Topo


Thursday, January 14, 2010

EL SALTO - Epic Mexican Sport Climbing!



Most climbers by now have heard of the epic sport climbing at El Potrero Chico near Monterrey, Mexico. El Salto is located in the same vicinity but it offers a very unique experince compared to that of Potrero. El Salto is really off the map, the climbing is steep and strenuous and the quality is amazing. Be prepared for an epic just getting to this spot, but if you make the effort you wont be sorry. No phones, no materialistic attachments, just sick climbing and a true experience of Mexican culture. Really steep, long bolted routes is the norm here, and if you climb 5.11+ and above this is a really nice side trip if you are climbing at El Potrero for a while! Most people I've met have fell in love with this place, gorgeous streaked limestone full of tufas, stalagtites and edges. If you meet some friendly local climbers, they are usually super helpful and they will give you some good beta. Included here is a vague topo of El Salto, but forwarned this is just a description of the routes and some general knowledge of the area, it will take some effort to get here. Have fun and experience everything the awesome country of Mexico has to offer! The photos are courtesy of my college friend and super duper climber Leslie Timms.







Music!



Time for yet another installment of great music! This group is called Band Of Horses, they are from North and South Carolina and their music is really awesome. It's a indie rock/alternative sound that is very original. The first time I actually listened to these guys I recognized their music from several cool movies,  they sound soo good, they have a certain vibe that I can't explain! I will throw on a few songs so everyone can get a good listen. Hope you enjoy it!

Song: The Funeral - Band of Horses
Song: The Great Slave Lake - Band of Horses
Song: Our Swords - Band of Horses

Saturday, January 9, 2010

SITTING BULL AND THE SUGAR CUBE - High Alpine Rock Climbing In Alberta's Rocky Mountians!!



This little pristine area is located above Bow Summit on the Icefields Parkway near Helen Lake in Alberta. With a magnificent view, atmosphere and ambience the climbing here is truly unbeatable. If you climb 5.11 this is a place well worth the visit. Picture two giant boulders sitting all alone in the alpine looking over the Rocky Mountains with huge exposure, sick routes and no people!!! You have 'War Dance' which is a super arete 11c sport climb, 'Mystery Machine' a 3 pitch 11a trad route that are both classics worth the visit alone! Enough of trying to coax you into coming here. The hiking route to Helen Lake is already a classic, how about throwing some stout climbing in to up the ante! Haha! A true Alberta Rockies experience. The guide included here is really good, nearby there is some really good camping at Mosquito Creek that should put you within minutes of the area. Enjoy!!!

Link: SITTING BULL - SUGAR CUBE Mini Rock Guide


Friday, January 8, 2010

Ice Climbing In Malakwa, British Columbia



Driving east from Sicamous all of sudden you enter a much deeper valley and poof! 4 really good ice routes and a whole bunch of cliffs rise above the Trans Canada Highway. On the north side of the highway there are 3 areas with ice up to WI5 and on the south side, a big blue WI4 hidden in the forest. There is definitley potential here for many more routes with some exploration and even though the season is probaly short, it is a really beauty place to spend a day close to home. The routes have little or no avi hazard and they all have short approaches. Along with the routes around 3VG, there is enough here to enjoy a good few days of ice climbing. Although the climbs are on Crown Land, make sure to ask permission first from the locals seeing how some of the approaches pass over private property. Mini-topo included here, keep on exploring and i'm sure it will grow! Please tread lightly and play safe!